Take that squash and slab it into a savory pie

When I plan my Thanksgiving menu, I keep its complementary fall colors in mind - the russet and bronze of a roast turkey, the distinct greens of string beans, Brussels sprouts and kale, and the flame oranges and golds of winter squash.

There is great variety in squashes, my favorite fall shape shifter. They pair with curry in one dish and cinnamon streusel in another. For the holiday, I have transformed winter squash into soups, souffles and stews, but this year I will use it to fill a savory slab pie. It can feed a crowd, be made a day in advance and is served at room temperature. In other words, it is a formidable addition to the sidedish arsenal.

While this vegetarian pie could be made with kabocha or Cinderella or Hubbard squash, I choose the humble butternut. Look for heavy, unblemished specimens, seeking out those with long necks and bulbous ends that are on the small side, because the bulb’s flesh surrounding the seeds tends to be watery and/or stringy. The cylindrical, seedless neck is denser and easier to peel and cube. Because this recipe calls for a quantity of puree, the smaller and adorably named buttercup squash is too petite to fuss with for this pie.

I am aware that some cooks avoid working with winter squash because its prep can be daunting. Rather than succumb to the pre-cut and often tasteless shrink-wrapped cubes at the store, I have a solution: Poke the squash with a sharp knife in a dozen spots then microwave it until it is fork-tender. Let it cool for a few minutes, and the skin will be easy to remove. The flesh emerges ready to mash and tuck into a pie.

There’s no need tomake pie dough and wrestle with a rolling pin here. I press in a quick cookie-crumb crust instead. I like gingersnaps for this purpose, but graham crackers work well, too. The crust can be baked and refrigerated for a few days before you fill it.

Because savory is the intention, I was determined to veer away from any filling that smacked of pumpkin pie spice. Instead, I turned to miso to add a rich, sultry undertone. Maple syrup balances the salty with sweet, woodsy notes, and the flavor profile is fifinished with a whisper of toasted sesame oil and a generous amount of black pepper. This will not be mistaken for your great aunt’s pumpkin creation - especially with a tangy topping of plain yogurt.

I’ve scaled this pie to fifit in a 9-by- 13- inch rimmed baking sheet, otherwise known as a quarter-sheet pan. It is shallower than a brownie pan, whichmakes it a breeze to serve from, and its size makes it handy for transport and refrigerator storage. There is no need to line or spray the pan; the crust is buttery enough to release intact.

To round out my Thanksgiving color wheel, I’ll add the crimson of cranberry sauce and the earthy browns of rolls, stuffing and gravy. The tricolor hues of this savory slab pie fit right in.