S.F.’s new dining complex, One65, stands tall
Four concepts, from casual to fine dining, under one Union Square roof
Union Square’s One65 is one of San Francisco’s largest and most enterprising restaurant projects in some time. The tall, narrow beaux arts building at 165 O’Farrell St. is now a 25,000-square-foot, multilevel French culinary destination featuring four unique concepts, from casual to fine dining. There’s even a clubby bar on the fourth floor. The concepts opened in phases, beginning on May 19 with the ground-level One65 Patisserie & Boutique, and culminating with French chef-partner Claude Le Tohic’s fine dining restaurant, O’ by Claude Le Tohic, taking over the fifth and sixth floors earlier this month. Le Tohic is new to San Francisco, but not to the United States. He’s a Michelin star- and James Beard award-winning chef best known for earning the restaurant Joël Robuchon at the MGM Grand the only three-Michelin star rating in Las Vegas. For One65, he collaborated with San Francisco-based D-Scheme Studio, the architectural design firm behind Alexander’s Steakhouse of San Francisco and Cupertino. Le Tohic’s vision for One65: To celebrate French cuisine without pretense, while bringing together the freshest produce California has to offer within a range of dining options fit for anyone at any time of day. Does he succeed? Read on to find out our experience at One65 Patisserie & Boutique, and One65 Bistro & Grill and Elements at One65, which both opened in late May. Find more information at One65sf.com.
One65 Patisserie & Boutique
Designed in the image of Paris’ grand patisseries, this cafe and sweets shop is the most colorful and accessible of the One65 concepts. A simple glass facade, white marble countertops and black tile floors allow the gem-like eclairs, tarts and other delicacies to pop like jewels in the 25-foot-long quartz pastry case. The stunning truffles and other confections are made in the mini chocolate factory on the second floor. Check out the action from the glassed-in display room. We nibbled a mild guava tart ($9) comprised of three layers — fresh fruit, mousse and guava confit — while sipping lattes and taking in the colorful rows of handmade macarons. There’s plenty of seating along the white damask walls when you enter and also in the back, where lunch-breakers were enjoying soups, freshly baked baguettes stuffed with jambon, and cold-pressed juices. There’s also beer and wine. Overall, a great addition to Union Square for coffee, graband-go fare and authentic French pastries. Open from 7:30 a.m. daily.
One65 Bistro & Grill
Dismiss images of casual French bistros from your mind, because One65’s version is what most of us would describe as fine dining. Instead of simple, homey steak frites or cassoulet on the dinner menu, you’ll find small portions of technique
driven cuisine, with seven of the nine entrees priced over $25, and some fired in an exclusive Josper charcoal oven — the only one in San Francisco. Lunch features sandwiches and entrees in the $18-$28 range. Located on the third floor, which has low ceilings and looks out onto Macy’s, it doesn’t feel like a bistro, either. Decor is neutral and minimalist, with tufted brown leather banquettes, white marble tables and recycled cork flooring. Overly attentive waiters made us nervous — it was opening weekend. We chilled out easily, though, sipping a One65 Cooler ($13), a refreshing cocktail made with Comoz Blanc vermouth, an Italian aperitif called Dimmi, St.-Germain and hibiscus. It was a lovely pairing for the crepe-thin onion tart, topped with creamy spring onions and chopped porcini mushrooms ($18). We dined on beef cheeks served on a savory semolina cake with inky nettle puree ($30) and handmade campanelle with fava beans in a foamy, mascarpone sauce. The pasta was fresh, but mint and lemon would’ve punched up those spring flavors. Overall, an elegant yet pricey eatery (sides, including fries, start at $10). Leave the kids at home. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. for lunch, 5:30 p.m. for dinner and 10:30 a.m. for weekend brunch.
Elements at One65
Swanky, dark and masculine, this intimate bar and lounge on the fourth floor has a nightlife vibe, with an open wine cellar, seductive lighting, black armchairs and glass-encased lockers showing off prized liquor bottles. Not to worry, though: The soft, fabric-like embellished walls are designed to keep noise level to a minimum. The equally artful cocktail program, led by bar director Trevin Hutchins, is inspired by the four elements of air, water, fire and earth. Look for inventive drinks like the woodsy All Bark & No Bite ($16), made with Carpano Bianco, Rittenhouse rye and a five amari blend and served atop a branch, or the ethereal Light as a Feather, Stiff as a Board ($19) with Bimini gin, citrus, pandan, lavender, cream and an egg white. The drinks will cost you, but they’re creative and memorable. Overall, a sexy upper floor bar for sipping poetic cocktails. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. and from 10:30 a.m. weekends for brunch. One65 Bistro & Grill menu items will be available at Elements as well.