Mexican- American fare sure towarm the soul
Serious fans ofMexican food know that it is one of the most sophisticated and varied cuisines in the world, with so much more to offer than a classic combination plate.
They also know that sometimes, that combo plate is the only thing that will satisfy belly and soul.
So it was on a recent evening in Arvada, when the sun had vanished along with any vestiges of warmth. What was needed was a meal with some ooomph.
A trip to Las Potrancas on Wadsworth Boulevard, not far from Olde Town Arvada, filled the bill.
It is a brightly lit, family- friendly spot with colorful decor and a cheery staff that seems to be on a first- name basis with half the patrons. After your second or third visit, they’ll know yours, too.
The best way to enjoy dinner at Las Potrancas, which has a sister restaurant nearby? Bring a friend— or friends— and work your way through the menu. This is shared plate heaven.
Start with the guacamole, although warm tortilla chips and a sprightly pico de gallo will tide you over until it arrives.
Their version of guac is a bowl of coarsely mashed avocado, diced tomatoes, scallions and cilantro. This is a generous portion, enough
to garnish entrees if desired, or taken home for next morning’s breakfast. The tortilla chips are sturdy enough to hold up to the dip, sparing the irritation of chip fragments shearing off in the avocado mix.
The restaurant offers nine types of salsas, and waiters are happy to describe them and recommend a custom flight. Along with the basic tomato and roasted arbol salsa, we liked the enchilada salsa ( roasted guajillo chiles, garlic and salt) and the bang- bang salsa diablo ( roasted mirasol chiles, which are the fresh, non- dried version of guajillos, plus onions and tomatoes).
A cold bottle of Negra Modelo, one of several Mexican beers on the menu, was a proper chaser. The restaurant makes a solid margarita, and wines and sodas are also available.
Combo plates were hearty indulgences.
One held a creamy cheese enchilada, plus a tamale with masa whose moistness brought out the corn flavor, like you were eating kernels ground fresh from the cob— all smothered with cheese and a dark green chile sauce. Beans and rice come on the side, and the restaurant will substitute cholesterol- free whole beans, done ranch style, if you ask.
Folks who order those cholesterolfree beans will likely not be ordering the No. 18 combo, where a tamale and bean tostada are merely supporting players for the chicharrón burrito. It’s a big boy, packed with chicharróns, fatty, bite- sized pork chunks deep- fried— twice— for maximum rich and puffy crispness. The chicharróns taste deeply of pork, the essence of a hog who gave its all. Two enchiladas also stood out. Enchiladas Zuisas were a vegetarian’s delight. Corn tortillas were packed with spinach and a cream sauce, then smothered with a tomatillo sauce that leavened the richness of the cream ( and the sprinkling of queso fresco) with a zap of acidity. Nice, but the tomatillo sauce should have been more intense.
The Tapatias also pleased. Chicken enchiladas, rolled not stacked, were covered with a brick- red salsa rojo made with roasted guajillo and marasol chiles, then topped with queso fresco and a dollop of sour cream. The enchiladas are also available with a dark mole sauce with deep flavors.
Two visits, two winning evenings.
The warmth from the plates, and the folks who brought them to the table, made one forget about the cold outside.