The Day

Farm feasts from coast to coast drawing diners

- By LISA RATHKE

Cambridge, Vt. — What was once a smattering of farms offering expensive dinners within view of the fields where the food was raised has sprouted into popular summer and fall events that run the gamut from multicours­e dinners to weekly burger nights at farms across the country.

These farm feasts are popping up from California to Vermont and are part of the growing agritouris­m movement. Diners enjoy locally raised foods; farmers supplement their income.

“It makes you appreciate farmers in a different way. And you can’t beat the food,” said Barbara O’Connell, of Ardsley, N.Y., who with her family recently attended a farm dinner for a second year in a row at Valley Dream Farm in Cambridge, Vt.

They were among the 60 people seated on hay bales around two long tables on the farm stand’s open-air porch on a clear hot evening. A neighbor’s cows chomped on grass across the road, and an occasional truck passed by on the rural road pulling trailers of freshly cut hay.

The feast included a salad of lettuces, kale and blueberrie­s; maple mustard chicken; tiny new potatoes; grilled zucchini and summer squash; and homemade vanilla ice cream with maple syrup. The dinner came after a hay wagon tour of the lush green fields where the organic produce is grown.

At least five farms now offer regular farm dinners in Vermont. Farm dinners also have grown in the Midwest, said Bob Benenson, spokesman for the nonprofit FamilyFarm­ed, which works with farmers and food entreprene­urs to help grow their businesses.

“By using these dinners to draw people down to a farm, it serves to educate them, enlighten them more about sustainabl­e agricultur­e practices and hopefully, at the end of it, they go back to wherever, Chicago, the suburbs, and they start shopping more at farmers markets and things like that,” he said.

Kruger’s Farm in Portland, Ore., couldn’t survive on farming alone, said its president, Don Kruger.

“I’m telling you, just farming doesn’t make it. You got to do everything else to make things work,” said Kruger, whose farm serves meals to patrons under a 300-year old oak tree with a huge canopy.

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