The Columbus Dispatch

Village Taco has good fun with Mexican vegan

- G.A. Benton

I think it’s safe to say that a high percentage of Ohioans grow up loving the food from Taco Bell and hamburger chains. I think that it’s also safe to say that more and more people are exploring veganism.

Local adherents to a we-can-haveit-all viewpoint should know that one of those things needn’t cancel out the other. For evidence, I present wackybut-strong-performing Village Taco, where you can have your plant-based meal and eat your addictive junk-foodstyle favorites, too.

As described on its website, Village Taco — which is subtitled “The Joint” (one of several cannabis-alluding puns) — is an entirely vegan eatery that began with “two traveling hippies selling food out of our Volkswagen van at concerts.”

Fast forward through 20 years as the hippies — John and Heidi Stone — have six kids, several pop-up gigs, a successful (if short-lived) tiny eatery in Alexandria (which recently closed), assumed the former Hal & Al’s spot in February and then adjusted to the coronaviru­s pandemic by becoming a well-run, “zero contact” takeout operation.

After ordering online and waiting the 20-minute or so quoted time, customers pull into the parking lot of Village Taco’s vivid blue building on the South Side — an old VW van serves as a landmark — then send a text to the number written in rainbow colors on a chalkboard near a prominentl­y placed table. Shortly thereafter, a server will deposit

involves a hot corned beef sandwich with a juicy beef burger. It might sound strange to pile corned beef over grilled beef — but think bacon on a burger and you'll get the concept. I've added a spoonful of sauerkraut and a dressing reminiscen­t of Thousand Island. This is no ordinary burger. The recipe makes six burgers — leftovers reheat nicely in the microwave for speedy meals. Of course, you can make them with ground turkey to reduce the fat content.

As for any burger, the better the bun the better the sandwich. Ciabatta buns have those large airy holes that keep them from being too dense. Pretzel buns offer sweetness that pairs well with the tang of sauerkraut. Thick slices of toasted, crusty country bed or marbled rye likewise satisfy my good bread theory.

Armed with these recipes, you can cook for me anytime. I'll even do the dishes!

Makes 2 dinner servings or 4 snacks 1/3 cup sunflower oil, peanut oil, safflower oil or expeller-pressed canola oil

½ cup yellow popcorn kernels

Fine table salt

Nutritiona­l yeast

Powdered cheese

For powdered cheese, try the cheddar cheese powder from King Arthur or the Spice House (thespiceho­use.com). I also like the Taylor Street Garlic & Herb Seasoning from the Spice House when I want a bit of garlicky kick.

Have all the ingredient­s near the stove. Turn on the exhaust fan. Pour oil into a deep 3-quart saucepan with a lid. Add 2 popcorn kernels and set it over mediumhigh heat. Cover the pan.

Stand near the stove and listen for the kernels to pop. When they do, that means your oil is hot enough. Carefully pour the remaining popcorn kernels into the pan. Cover and shake gently. Cook over medium-high heat while the kernels pop vigorously, a minute or two. Reduce heat to very low, shake the pan and let cook until you hear the kernels stop popping. Turn off the heat and let stand covered while you get out a large bowl.

Pour the popcorn into the bowl. Immediatel­y sprinkle with the salt, yeast and powdered cheese to taste while mixing gently with a large spoon. Enjoy while hot.

PER SERVING (based on 2): 499 calories, 5 g protein, 34 g carbohydra­tes, 6 g fiber, 0 sugar, 39 g fat (4 g saturated), 0 cholestero­l, 3 mg sodium

 ?? [ROB HARDIN / ALIVE] ?? Vt-style taco with “porq,” right, and a bean, rice, “cheeze” and “beaf” burrito from Village Taco.
[ROB HARDIN / ALIVE] Vt-style taco with “porq,” right, and a bean, rice, “cheeze” and “beaf” burrito from Village Taco.
 ?? [ZBIGNIEW BZDAK/CHICAGO TRIBUNE] ?? Stovetop cheesy popcorn
[ZBIGNIEW BZDAK/CHICAGO TRIBUNE] Stovetop cheesy popcorn

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