Craving brilliant bubbles? Sip Crémant.
We live in a golden age of affordable sparkling wines. From pét-nat to Prosecco, to lip-smacking bottles of Txakoli, Cava, and Lambrusco, there has never been a better time for bubbles on a budget. Such a myriad of options is something to celebrate. Who doesn’t love choice? But this week — ferrying a not-yet-driving-teen to friends’ houses while rushing to prep for end-of-year gatherings — a clear directive is in order: At your wine shop, ask for Crémant.
“Crémant” describes a category of French sparkling wines crafted in the same manner as Champagne. The heart of that meticulous process involves an effervescencepromoting second fermentation in bottle. Made in regions outside the geographic boundaries of Champagne, the application of méthode traditionnelle results in robust atmospheres of pressure in every bottle, translating into fine, fast-streaming bubbles in the glass. But the very best examples of Crémant express something more than palate-cleansing CO2. They showcase an array of grapes, grown in varying conditions across diverse terroirs; and the most distinctive frequently utilize time-honored cellar practices. Best of all, the majority of these bubblies can be scooped up for $25 or less.
This month, I recommend two outstanding examples of Crémant, one from the Jura, located east of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, nestled at the edge of the Alps; and another blended from vineyards in Burgundy proper. On shop shelves, you’ll also spy examples from Alsace, Loire Valley, Languedoc, and beyond. Experiment! That spirit of adventure will stand you in good stead as you kick off a brilliant 2024.
Domaine Bourdy, Crémant du Jura Fifteen generations in, winegrowing brothers Jean-Phillipe and Jean-François Bourdy coax the best out of their biodynamic 25 acres in and around the hamlet of Arlay. And if you immediately think of Jura wine as oxidative (in the manner of sous voile), their Crémant du Jura will remind you that the region also excels in vividly fresh styles. This sparkler, 100 percent Chardonnay, is silvery platinum in hue. Vibrant froth carries scents of yellow fruit, including bruised Bartlett pear, and a lightly nutty scent reminiscent of marzipan — the result of 18 months of aging on the lees, plus microinteraction with air in venerable barrels, some 80 years old. Brightly tangy with flavors of apples, pears, and ginger, this clean-finishing bubbly is absolutely beguiling. 12 percent ABV. Distributed by Vineyard Road. Around $25. Retailers include: ELLEN BHANG Pemberton Farms, Cambridge; Federal Wine & Spirits, Boston.
Moillard, Crémant de Bourgogne Brut 2020 Vineyard records trace the Moillard family name back before the French Revolution, but it was Symphorien Moillard who entered the wine trade in 1850, ushering in a new era of winemaking based in Nuits-SaintGeorges. Harvesting grapes across 28 acres of several Burgundy appellations — including the gentle hills of the Côte Chalonnaise — this blend is comprised of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Gamay. It offers clean, precise bubbles that convey scents of ripe stone fruit, bright acid, and washed river stones, leading to a lemon-and-red berry palate tinged with saline. Entirely charming. 11.5 percent ABV. Distributed by Cafe Europa. $22-$25. Retailers include: Pemberton Farms, Cambridge; The Spirited Gourmet, Belmont; The Wine Emporium, Tremont Street, Boston.