The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Okonomiyak­i lends itself to variations

Pancake is mix of napa cabbage, kimchi and bacon.

- By C.W. Cameron

Woodward & Park,

519 Memorial Drive SE, Atlanta. 404-748-1091, woodwardpa­rkatl.com

We enjoyed the Okonomiyak­i from Woodward & Park. Who knew a cabbage pancake could be so interestin­g? How do they make it? — Jamila Jones, Stone Mountain

These days, it seems that okonomiyak­i (say that three times fast!) is on everyone’s lips. It’s a traditiona­l dish from Osaka, Japan, but it lends itself to interestin­g variations. At Woodward & Park, it’s a mix of napa cabbage, kimchi, and bacon, which subs for the pork belly you might find at other places. The crispy pancake is fun to eat and the garnishes add another layer of flavor.

When he sent the recipe, executive chef Dan Brown told us, “Okonomiyak­i was one of the dishes I was looking forward to trying in Japan the most. My wife and I had an incredible meal at a little basement restaurant in Tokyo called Rokumonya that specialize­d in it. We sat at the counter, watched, and I took notes. I think guests enjoy it so much because it’s surprising. Most people won’t know what it is, and just saying ‘cabbage pancake’ doesn’t come close to doing the dish justice. It’s incredibly flavorful and really catches people off guard because they don’t know what to expect. We have several customers that come in to get it more than once a week!”

Brown reassures home cooks not to be daunted by the ingredient list, and especially those topping suggestion­s. Everything is relatively inexpensiv­e and available at your nearest Asian grocery store or at well-stocked internatio­nal market such as the Buford Highway Farmers Market or H Mart.

Is there a recipe from a metro Atlanta restaurant you’d like to make at home? Tell us and we’ll try to get it. We’ll also test it and adapt it for the home kitchen. Because of volume, we can’t answer all inquiries. Send your request, your address and phone number to fromthemen­u@gmail.com and put “From the menu of ” and the name of the restaurant in the subject line.

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