Perfecting a seasonal risotto opens a year’s worth of meals
Risotto is one solution to summer cooking, especially if you’re on holiday and want to cook something easy. The first thing to know about risotto is it really isn’t difficult, despite what you may have heard. It’s all in the technique — which basically means paying
attention, adjusting the heat correctly and nursing the dish along.
Once you’re proficient, you’ll be able to have it a hundred ways. You can make a simple lemon risotto for a first course or saffron-scented risotto to serve with braised lamb shanks. Every vegetable qualifies. Wild mushrooms for an autumn version; butternut squash for winter; peas and asparagus in the spring.
Now, with the tomato harvest in full swing, is the time to make risotto al pomodoro, with the ripest, sweetest tomatoes you can find.
TOMATO RISOTTO
Yield: 4 to 6 servings. Time: 30 minutes Extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, diced (about 1½ cups) Salt and pepper
1½ cups arborio or carnaroli rice Pinch of red pepper flakes
2 garlic cloves
½ cup white wine
2 cups diced ripe red tomatoes
3 cups boiling water or vegetable broth
½ cup grated pecorino or Parmesan, plus more for serving
4 medium tomatoes, in different colors, sliced
Chopped parsley, for garnish Snipped basil, for garnish
Preparation: Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add the onion and season generously with salt. Add pepper to taste and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.
Add the rice and cook the onions, stirring, until the onions are barely brown, about 2 minutes. Add red pepper flakes, garlic, white wine and diced tomatoes, and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes more.
Add 2 cups boiling water and adjust the heat to a brisk simmer. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring every minute or so.
When the liquid is absorbed, add remaining 1 cup water and cook for 5 minutes more, until the rice is cooked but the grains are still firm. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding another splash of water if necessary. Turn off the heat, stir in the pecorino and 2 more tablespoons olive oil.
Transfer to a low, wide serving bowl. Surround the rice with tomato slices and season them with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with parsley and basil. Pass more grated cheese at the table.