San Francisco Chronicle

Naples’ beloved pizza makes comeback after shutdown

- By Paolo Santalucia

NAPLES, Italy — Wood is burning again in Naples’ pizza ovens, giving a symbolic and savory boost to Neapolitan­s after two months of lockdown meant an end to their most iconic and favorite food.

Pizzerias reopened Monday night in the birthplace of pizza, albeit under restrictio­ns and for home delivery only.

Whereas pizzerias in Rome and elsewhere were allowed to operate for takeout and delivery service, they were banned in Naples out of fears that such a congested, highdensit­y city could fast become a new hot spot for COVID19 infections.

Campania’s governor, Vincenzo De Luca, enforced strict lockdown measures, knowing that the region’s hospitals couldn’t handle a major influx of the sick. In the end, Campania had a relatively manageable outbreak of about 4,300 people infected, half of whom didn’t need to be hospitaliz­ed.

With Italy as a whole gradually reopening, De Luca lifted bans on pizza deliveries as well as home deliveries from bars, pastry shops and ice cream parlors and restaurant­s.

“Surely this is a little restart for the entreprene­urs, important for us and for our region, our city and our nation,” said Giovanni Pezzuto, owner of a Neapolitan pizzeria. “This is a symbol of hope for the little firm that slowly can restart.”

It’s not a total reopening, however. Clients can place orders only by phone — not in person — and all businesses must close by 10 p.m. The pizzerias have to be cleaned regularly and workers must wear gloves and masks.

Vincenzo Capuano, owner of pizzeria Capuano, said even the partial reopening will help Campania’s economy because all his ingredient­s are sourced locally.

“To make pizza, I have to buy the local flour from Naples, (local) San Marzano tomatoes, I have to buy the potatoes, the onions,” he said.

Without this support to the local economy, “after the health crisis we could have a much worse economic crisis.”

Italy was the first country in the West to be slammed by the outbreak, and its death toll — 27,359 — is the highest in Europe and second only to the U.S., which has more than five times the population. Italy’s epicenter, however, was based in the north and officials say the south was largely spared because the government locked down the whole country in time.

Nationwide, bars and restaurant­s are expected to be allowed to reopen in June for inhouse service, but only with strict social distancing and sanitation measures in place.

But the decision to keep schools closed until the fall could make it harder for parents to return to work. Typically, grandparen­ts in Italy are fallback babysitter­s, but they are now offlimits because they are vulnerable to the virus.

 ?? Andrew Medichini / Associated Press ?? Pizza is prepared for home delivery at the Caputo pizzeria in Naples, after a long precaution­ary closure.
Andrew Medichini / Associated Press Pizza is prepared for home delivery at the Caputo pizzeria in Naples, after a long precaution­ary closure.

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