San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
Where to stop for barbecue
Summer is here, and Texas families are planning their vacations. This often involves piling into the family truckster and driving to the far corners of the Lone Star State or even venturing to Louisiana.
Growing up, my family mostly stayed to the four points of the compass, and tried to keep driving time within three hours. In the days before iPads and cellular service, the patience and attention span of a typical Texas preteen could be held only a few hours.
I still make these same trips occasionally, and I always try to work in a visit to a local barbecue joint on the way. Fortunately, Texas barbecue has become so popular that you can find great smoked meats in just about every corner of the state.
Here is a guide to a few select barbecue joints you will find on the way to some typical road trip destinations. These places are chosen for ease of access and familyfriendliness. All locations are near main highways, have big outdoor dining areas for kids and pets to stretch their legs, and mostly avoid the long ordering lines found at other craft barbecue joints.
My family would often spend a weekend camping and hiking in parks like Davy Crockett National Forest, as well as fishing around Sam Rayburn or Livingston Lakes.
Crockett
If you are in this area, Mimsy’s Craft Barbecue in Crockett is a great stop for the family. Owned and operated by former Houstonians Wade and Kathy Elkins, there is a big, air-conditioned indoor dining room, as well as an outdoor seating area. Wade’s smoked meats are some of the best in Texas, and Kathy’s creative sides such as poblano cheddar grits and the outstanding
cheesecake are family crowd-pleasers.
Lake Charles
Heading east along I-10 we
would stop in Lake Charles, La., to visit family and, if we were particularly ambitious, make the drive all the way to New Orleans. There were and
are plenty of Cajun and Creole stops along the way, but now there is a legitimate Texas barbecue joint in Lake Charles to satisfy any craving for Lone Star State smoked meats.
Paul’s Rib Shack just off the 210 Loop features great Texasstyle brisket as well as Cajuninfluenced items such as smoked boudin and red-beans and rice. The big, oak treecovered patio in back has plenty of games and other kid-friendly distractions as well as live music on weekends.
Galveston
For many Texans, driving to the beach means Galveston. While the island has never been known for world-class barbecue, recently a worthy stop has popped up. It’s located in Bayou Vista, just before the causeway to Galveston Island.
Smokin’ Z’s BBQ is a trailer off I-45 and is open for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays only. It’s the perfect pit stop on your way onto the island, with a covered patio and wafts of salty sea breeze mixing with fragrant post oak from the nearby smokers. Owners Zaid and Mallory Al-Jazrawi put their spin on classic Texas barbecue here: The brisket and grilled-cheese on buttery toast will be a favorite even among the pickiest of eaters.