Bountiful squash
Loading up on all of this fruit’s varieties? You’ll want some new recipes.
As a country, we unite over squash. Seriously, we do. It’s called pumpkin. From pie to quick breads, pancakes and more — we lap up the subtle, sweet flavor. Even its seeds have fans.
However, most of us don’t think of pumpkin as squash. This diverse group of fruits of various members of the gourd family come in all shapes, sizes, color and patterns, including pumpkins, butternut, Hubbard, spaghetti, acorn and buttercup.
Every fall, I stock up on good-looking varieties at farmers markets, farm stands and grocery stores. They look great as an arrangement on the kitchen counter. But make no mistake: I really want to cook these beauties!
I occasionally make my mother’s version of acorn squash: Baked wedges dripping in butter and brown sugar. But it’s the savory goodies I can make with these naturally sweet winter species that really motivate. Stuffed, pureed, mashed, roasted, steamed, creamed, baked and grilled — almost any cooking method works. Just avoid boiling squash — it tends to turn to watery mush.
This fall, a relatively new addition to the produce selection — the Honeynut — enchants. Similar in shape to a butternut (but about half the size), this hybrid is a cross between a butternut and a buttercup.
I find it to be sweeter than either of those, with a tender orange pulp that cooks relatively quickly. It makes a delicious steamed side dish topped simply with butter, or a beautifully textured soup.
Pureed, I serve it dolloped with plain yogurt and a little maple syrup for breakfast.
Most squash are interchangeable in most recipes. Just think about the peel — some, such as the buttercup, have peels tender enough to eat cooked.
Others, such as acorn, Hubbard, pumpkin, kabocha and red kuri, have peels that stay unpleasantly tough and need to be removed either before or after cooking.
When the squash is too difficult to peel easily (such as Hubbard and kabocha), I cut it into chunks, remove the seeds and put the chunks into a microwave-safe baking dish. Add about ½ inch of water to the dish and cover it tightly. Microwave on high, turning the pieces occasionally, until fork-tender. When the squash has cooled, the peel will come off easily with a small knife.
I make double and triple batches of this Honeynut leek soup so I have plenty to package and drop off for friends and family.
The soup reheats nicely —
and freezes (without the garnishes) just fine for the cold weather ahead. Serve the soup plain as a first course to holiday meals. Or, top it with all the garnishes and pass some hot, cheesy quesadillas for a great comfort dinner any
day of the week.
The squash and sweet potato hash that follows makes a fabulous side dish for Thanksgiving dinner. Or serve it topped with a fried egg and slices of smoky ham for a Sunday brunch treat.
Honeynut and leek soup with smoked turkey
Prep: 25 minutes
Cook: 30 minutes
Makes: 6 to 7 cups, serving 4 as a main course This soup recipe doubles easily and freezes beautifully. Make a vegetarian version with vegetable broth and swap in sauteed mushrooms for the smoked turkey.
1 Honeynut, small butternut squash, kabocha or pumpkin, about 2 pounds total
1 large or 2 small leeks, ends trimmed
cup olive oil
1 medium (about 7 ounces) sweet onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, crushed
small red chile pepper, seeded, finely chopped 1 quart turkey stock, chicken broth or vegetable broth Salt, freshly ground pepper
cup heavy whipping cream, optional
pound smoked turkey, diced
cup shredded sharp cheese, such as Asiago or Romano
1 ½ to 2 cups hearty croutons Chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
Extra-virgin olive oil
1. Cut squash in half through the stem end. Scoop out seeds. Cut away all the rind. Cut flesh into 1-inch pieces. You’ll have 4 generous cups weighing about 1 pound.
2. Cut leek lengthwise in half; rinse well. Cut each half crosswise into thin slices including most of the green.
3. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add squash, leek and onion. Cook, stirring often, to soften the vegetables a bit, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and chile. Cook, 2 minutes. Add broth; simmer, partly covered over low heat, stirring often, until squash is tender, about 15 minutes for Honeynut or up to 25 minutes for other squash varieties.
4. Use an immersion blender to puree soup just to the point where it is creamy but still retains visible pieces of vegetables. (Alternatively, work in small batches to puree half of the soup in a blender. Return all the soup to the pot.) Adjust soup consistency by adding a little water (or more broth) so it has the consistency of heavy cream. Season with teaspoon salt and
teaspoon pepper. Stir in cream if using. Taste and adjust seasonings.
a little smoked turkey and cheese into each serving bowl. Top with a ladle or two of the hot soup. Add a few croutons and sprinkling of cilantro or parsley. Garnish with dots of olive oil. Serve.