MEX A LOT OF SENSE
Asian touches elevate thoughtful fusion cuisine at Tijuana Picnic
Tijuana Picnic is as laidback and loose as its name. But this happening nouveau-Mex joint from the crew behind Acme and Indochine has mostly flown under the radar while overrated spots like Javelina grab the glory.
Ignore the hype and get to Tijuana Picnic for a thoughtful Mexican menu amped with smart Asian accents in an op-art room that actually makes dining fun, not the soul-sapping endurance test you encounter at many Manhattan eateries. Remember fun? You will once you try starters like elote asado ($5), a dusky grilled ear of corn rolled in earthy coffee-chipotle powder and brushed with smooth cricket aioli that's much better than it sounds. The sweetness of the corn is beautifully cut by the bright cotija cheese.
I don’t often call food adorable, but there's no other word for Tijuana Picnic’s plump gorditas ($9), which feature tangy Chinese sausage and red onions in pillowy-crunchy fried corn dough. We couldn’t get enough of rich housemade crema fresca that came with them. Luckily, we finished it off with the purplecorn tortilla chips left over from our chunky, habanero-spiked guacamole ($8).
The whole Mexican-Asian thing may sound odd, but Tijuana Picnic’s duck empanadas ($8) — shredded meat, foie gras and scallions — seemed the most natural combination in the world. They reminded me of the Cantonese pu-pu platters I ate as a kid — in the best possible sense.
A fleshy kebab of mako shark ($12) was perfectly paired with the sharp citrus-chili condiment yuzu kosho.
Chef Alex Lopez’s mains and desserts continue the fun. Lopez delivers a juicy pollo asado ($24), a hacked-up half-chicken with subtle chipotle rub and irresistible, chili-dusted roast pineapple as a garnish. It’s perfectly accompanied by sweetish baked soy beans ($5), a smart, lighter spin on baked beans.
Skip the house-made Thaispiced chocolate ice cream ($5), with its minuscule kick, in favor of the cumin-coated churros ($8). Days later, I’m still tasting the sweet-fiery sticks and their dulce de leche and citrus-cream dips.
In fact, the only real strikeout on the whole menu is raiz ($9), a beet-jicama salad drenched in lemon-chili dressing.
Our only other gripe was temperature. Gorditas arrived lukewarm; guac was an avocado popsicle. The kitchen seemed slammed during our visits; proprietors this experienced should know how to better manage flow.
Still, Tijuana Picnic reminded me how enjoyable it can be to just kick back and let the food do the talking.