How a pot of beans can change the way you think about cooking
A pot of beans: Cooking doesn’t get much more basic than that. Beans might be cute (especially pretty heirloom varieties), and well-made beans make a tasty, cheap side dish. But that seems to be about the extent of it. What are beans going to teach you?
A novice cook can learn a lot from a pot of beans – and while this might sound funny, a more experienced cook can have a lot of fun with one – from Seattle food writer Sara Dickerman’s new “Secrets of Great Second Meals: Flexible Modern Recipes That Value Time and Limit Waste.” Dickerman’s “Lazybones Beans” take four and a half hours (or even overnight) to cook, but only about five minutes to put together. They’ve got a little special stuff thrown in – a chile pepper, a whole head of garlic, herbs – to make them extra-tasty, but they’re basic at heart. It’s where Dickerman goes from there – where she can take you and your beans – that’s interesting.
“WHERE TO PUT YOUR BEANS ONCE YOU HAVE COOKED THEM” shouts a section after the recipe. This sounds funny, too, but what follows makes eminent sense: Dickerman says to use your beans lots of different ways, like, “Simply, as a side dish; Soupily, to add heft to a soup or stew …” I love her neologism “Saladly,” where she says beans would love to be put with “a sharp vinaigrette” and veggies (fresh or cooked), or in a green goddess salad, or a warm bean salad. Some of the beyond-sidedish bean-serving suggestions carry page numbers for specific recipes; some are simple one-liners, like, “Smoothly, blended up with olive oil, lemon juice and garlic” for a hummustype spread or dip.
“LEARN TO LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS!” the cover of “Secrets of Great Second Meals” screams, and you can also approach the book from another way around: a handy chart in the back asking “What’s on hand?” Even those comfortable enough in the kitchen to figure out what to do with, say, leftover chicken will probably find something new: Beyond chicken salad or enchiladas, the curious cook is referred to recipes for congee, fritters, a tomatoginger curry, a “Braise-y Tomato Sandwich” and more. Your beans, according to the table, can take you to Dickerman’s hearty bean soup, veggie tacos, crostini …
It’s the kind of holistic, intuitive approach to cooking that can take a long time to develop on your own. It’s also the kind of approach that can use a little renewal – some fresh ideas, new thoughts – if you’re already there. And even an old friend like beans can be inspiring.