Chef-led missions changing how disaster aid is delivered
SAN JUAN, Puerto Rico — José Andrés was walking along a dark street in a stained T-shirt and a ball cap, trying to decompress after another day of feeding an island that has been largely without electricity since Hurricane Maria hit a month ago.
He’d gone barely half a block before two women ran over to snag a selfie. A man shouted out his name from a bar running on a generator and offered to buy him a rum sour.
The reaction is more subdued in rural mountain communities like Naguabo, where Andrés and his crew have been delivering supplies so cooks at a small Pentecostal church can make 5,000 servings of arroz con pollo and carne guisada every day. There, people touch his sleeve and whisper, “Gracias.” They surround him and pray.
“He’s much more than a hero,” said Jesus R. Rivera, who was inside a cigar store watching Andrés pick out one of his daily smokes. “The situation is that still some people don’t even have food. He is all that is keeping them from starving.”
It’s overwhelming, even for Andrés, the larger-thanlife, Michelin-starred Spanish chef with a prolific, unfiltered social media presence, who got into a legal fight with the Trump Organization after Donald Trump made disparaging comments about Mexicans.
“Every day I have this personal anxiety inside,” Andrés said during a Jeep ride through the countryside in late October. “We only came here to try to help a few