■ Blue Ribbon restaurant elevates American favorites like fried chicken, Heidi Knapp Rinella says.

Don’t miss fab fried chicken, fresh seafood

BRUCE and Eric Bromberg deserve credit for a lot of things — their contributions to the renewed respect for American cuisine among them — but one of the most notable is bringing fried chicken out of barbecue and soul-food joints and into dumplings) and sauteed mushrooms.

And fondue. It’s clear the brothers have no fear of cliches and no wonder; this dish became the darling of the ’70s because when wellprepared it’s a decadent, warm, creamy treat. This version ($26) is as good as can be, a mellow blend that tasted of Emmenthaler enlivened by bacon-filled potato skins on the side as well as the requisite apple slices and chunks of bread.

Service throughout was fairly well paced (although it took a long time to get the contribution from the oyster bar) if a little goofy, our server was “blessed” with a gift for rhyming. The location in a Strip hotel guarantees a large contingent of conventioneers (who no doubt appreciate that both Siberian sturgeon caviar and a cheeseburger are on the menu), but the staff was adept at handling a big rush. The interior is pleasant if not spectacular, comforting dark woods and leather with retro tile and lots of Edison bulbs that charm as much as they illuminate.

There’s also a refreshing degree of truth in menu at Blue Ribbon, which calls a skate a skate instead of trying to pass them off as scallops, and doesn’t hide pigeon under the squab label. All in all, it’s about as American as it gets. And in this case that’s a very good thing.

Benjamin Hager Las Vegas Review-Journal @benjaminhphoto Fried chicken, mashed potatoes and collard greens at Blue Ribbon have a distinct Southern feel.