Dayton Daily News

How to get stuffed peppers right

No more bland sauce and filling, either.

- By Jean Marie Brownson

Fresh peppers, hot and spicy, sweet and crunchy, are the ultimate quick change artists. I roast poblanos and jalapenos for Mexican-style rajas, puree red and orange bells into soups and sauces, dice green bells and Anaheims for omelets and gingerly tuck habaneros into salsa.

When the farmers market baskets overflow with varieties not regularly found at the supermarke­t, I stock up. Long skinny shishito and squat padron peppers make fantastic seared finger foods. Red poblanos, slender cubanelles and yellow sweet bells prove perfect for stuffing.

Fortunatel­y, fresh peppers keep for several weeks in the refrigerat­or. Simply pat dry and store unwrapped in the crisper drawer. Do not seal them in plastic as that promotes molding. If I have freezer space, I roast both sweet and hot peppers under the broiler to char the skin, then tuck the cooled specimens into freezer bags. I can peel and seed them after thawing.

On more than one occasion, stuffed peppers have disappoint­ed: undercooke­d peppers, crunchy rice and bland fillings. Moose-AKa, a Denali, Alaska, restaurant, featuring Serbian specialtie­s, got it perfectly right on a recent visit. The long sweet red pepper, stuffed fat with spicy beef and basmati rice on a pool of tomato sauce, rekindled our interest.

At home, I start with the tomato sauce that will sit under the peppers as they cook. I love to use imported boxed tomatoes (free of citric acid and calcium chloride) for a bright-tasting sauce ready in less than 30 minutes. A touch of ground coriander and olive oil marry this sauce nicely to the sweet peppers. For a moister filling, I pool a little of the sauce over the top of the stuffed pepper before baking.

Ground beef, cooked with onions, dried currants and sweet spices, forms the base for a flavorful filling. Taking no chances on crunchy rice, I opt for cooked long grain basmati. It’s a piece of cake to cook rice in the rice cooker. By the time the sauce, filling and peppers are ready, so is the rice. Adding warm rice to the beef means it’ll absorb flavors beautifull­y.

I didn’t know stuffed-pepper soup was a thing until I encountere­d it at a family restaurant in Indiana. Turns out, plenty of versions populate the internet. I float tiny flavor-packed meatballs of beef and Italian sausage in the chunky soup bolstered by basmati rice. Shower each serving with fresh herbs, and you will be happy.

A cast-iron skillet full of seared finger-size peppers likewise makes folks smile. No need to worry about too much heat — usually only one in 20 shishito or padron peppers is killer hot. Well worth the risk, if you ask me.

SERBIAN-STYLE STUFFED BELL PEPPERS

Prep: 45 minutes Cook: 1 ½ hours Makes: 6 servings

Reheat leftover rice, or cook the rice in the rice cooker, while you work on the tomato sauce and filling preparatio­ns. If you can find red poblano peppers, they are delicious here; be aware that they may be spicy!

TOMATO SAUCE:

1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 box (26 ounces) or 1 can (28 ounces) chopped tomatoes with liquid

½ teaspoon each: ground

coriander, salt

BEEF AND RICE FILLING: 2 tablespoon­s olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped 1 pound lean ground beef

½ cup finely chopped green

pepper

¼ cup currants or chopped

raisins

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 generous cup warm cooked

rice

¼ cup pine nuts or slivered

almonds

1 tablespoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon each: cinnamon,

salt

¼ teaspoon each: allspice,

finely ground black pepper 2 tablespoon­s minced fresh dill 6 small yellow or red sweet bell peppers, 3 pounds total (or 8 to 12 large long red or yellow Anaheim peppers) Fresh dill or parsley for garnish

1. For tomato sauce, cook onion in oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until translucen­t, about 3 minutes. Add garlic; cook, 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes, coriander and salt. Simmer, stirring often, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Meanwhile, for filling, heat oil in large nonstick skillet until hot. Add onion and ground meat. Cook and stir over medium heat, breaking meat up into small pieces, until browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in green pepper, currants and garlic; cook and stir, 5 minutes. Stir in rice, nuts, paprika, cinnamon, salt, allspice and pepper. Remove from heat. Stir in dill. Taste and adjust salt.

3. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut the top quarter off the peppers so you can remove the stem and core. Use your fingers or a small spoon to scrape out the seeds.

4. Pour about three-quarters of the tomato sauce into the bottom of a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Use a spoon to stuff each pepper full to the brim with the meat filling. Stand the stuffed peppers upright in the sauce. (If using Anaheim peppers, you will have to lay them in the sauce.) When all the peppers are filled, spoon some of the remaining sauce over the top of each stuffed pepper.

5. Pour ½ cup water into the sauce in the bottom of the dish. Cover the dish tightly with foil. Bake until the peppers are tender when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour for the Anaheim peppers or 1 hour and 15 minutes for the bell peppers. Let cool a few minutes. Serve garnished with dill or parsley.

Nutrition informatio­n per serving: 339 calories, 15 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 47 mg cholestero­l, 32 g carbohydra­tes, 14 g sugar, 20 g protein, 714 mg sodium, 8 g fiber

‘STUFFED PEPPER’ MEATBALL SOUP WITH FRESH HERBS

Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 1 hour Makes: 6 to 8 servings MEATBALLS:

1 pound lean ground beef ½ pound uncooked mild Italian sausage, removed from casing

1 large egg

¼ cup dry breadcrumb­s 3 tablespoon­s chopped fresh

parsley

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground

black pepper

SOUP:

1 medium onion, chopped 1 medium red bell pepper, cored,

seeded, chopped

½ large green bell pepper, cored,

seeded, chopped

1 carrot, peeled, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 quart (32 ounces) chicken

broth

1 can (28 ounces) crushed tomatoes

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning ½ teaspoon salt

1 to 1 ½ cups cooked rice

1 can (14 ounces) white beans,

drained

Chopped fresh basil, parsley and chives

1. For meatballs, put meats, egg, crumbs, parsley, salt and pepper into a large bowl. Gently mix everything together with your hands. Shape into small meatballs, each about 1 to 1 ½ inches in diameter.

2. Heat a large Dutch oven or saucepan over medium heat. Working in batches, add meatballs in a single uncrowded layer. Cook, turning occasional­ly, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove with tongs to a plate. Repeat to cook all the meatballs.

3. For soup, without washing the pan, add the onion to the meatball drippings in the pot. Cook and stir to scrape up browned bits, about 3 minutes. Stir in bell peppers and carrot; cook and stir, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic; cook 2 minutes. Stir in broth, tomatoes, seasoning and salt. Simmer, partly covered, stirring occasional­ly, 30 minutes.

4 Stir meatballs, rice and beans into the soup. Simmer until everything is heated through, about 10 minutes. Taste for salt. Serve garnished generously with fresh herbs.

Nutrition informatio­n per serving: 285 calories, 8 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 69 mg cholestero­l, 31 g carbohydra­tes, 7 g sugar, 22 g protein, 869 mg sodium, 5 g fiber

 ?? PHOTOS BY E. JASON WAMBSGANS/CHICAGO TRIBUNE ?? Serbian-style stuffed bell peppers are filled with ground beef, onion, peppers, garlic, pine nuts, rice and raisins.
PHOTOS BY E. JASON WAMBSGANS/CHICAGO TRIBUNE Serbian-style stuffed bell peppers are filled with ground beef, onion, peppers, garlic, pine nuts, rice and raisins.
 ?? STYLING MARK GRAHAM/FOOD ?? A meatball soup takes on the flavors of stuffed peppers. It’s made with beef and Italian sausage meatballs in chicken broth, plus tomatoes, bell peppers, white beans, rice and fresh herbs.
STYLING MARK GRAHAM/FOOD A meatball soup takes on the flavors of stuffed peppers. It’s made with beef and Italian sausage meatballs in chicken broth, plus tomatoes, bell peppers, white beans, rice and fresh herbs.

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