Chicago Sun-Times

Tiny Evanston eatery makes a big splash

- BY SETH SCHWARTZ

Maneuverin­g in 400 square feet adds new meaning to knowing your way around the kitchen.

With a few tours in the restaurant business under his belt, Evanston resident Scott Bradley envisioned a bistro on tony Main Street. Following six months of constructi­on, the conversion from a dress shop to cafe was complete.

Open since mid-July, The Alcove has become a comfortabl­e neighborho­od spot with distinct character. And with just three tables and seating for four at the bar, it’s intimate under any setting.

“You end up talking to the person next to you,” Bradley explained.

A light menu has enough to satisfy for a full dinner or late lunch. In place of a stove, a commercial scale panini grill serves to construct a series of sandwiches served with a house salad. Pumpkin, cranberry and other pies are award-winning quality. Everything is made from scratch, including the soups.

Several varieties of red and white house wines are available while there is one rotating beer on tap.

During the summer months, the four outdoor tables were filled with a few four-legged companions tagging along. Proximity to the CTA and Metra lines and Main Street Newsstand add to the foot traffic.

Nicole Gonzalez, who lives three blocks west, drops in with friends or by herself.

“There’s no place like this,” said Gonzalez. “It seems like it’s always been here. The bar is great. I like the Manhattans, the Tom Collins and red wines. Sometimes I’ll see people I know and stop in.”

A two-block commute makes The Alcove an ideal respite for Ben Frommer.

“There’s a nice Europeanfl­air here,” he said. “I usually have a beer or a scotch. Everything tastes great whether it’s the sandwiches or the pies. I come in after dinner once or twice a week. It’s nice to be able to walk home after a couple of drinks.”

Dropping by a few times a week is a habit for Evanston resident Rod Radjenovic­h.

“This is a place that’s transporte­d out of time,” he said. “There’s interactio­n between human beings. It’s eclectic. It’s a new concept. It’s more than just a restaurant, it’s transcende­d the neighborho­od. There’s nobody talking on their cell phone, there’s no television.

“I’ll make a pit stop after work and have a glass of wine and then come back later in the evening. You see people you know and meet new ones. Where else can you get a dinner and glass of wine for $15?”

Seth Schwartz is a local free-lance writer.

 ??  ?? Weekend Editor: Miriam Di Nunzio
Weekend Editor: Miriam Di Nunzio
 ??  ?? The Alcove owner Scott Bradley mixes a drink at his bar that features “old-timey” cocktails.
The Alcove owner Scott Bradley mixes a drink at his bar that features “old-timey” cocktails.

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