Second time AROUND
Turn sandwich crusts and other food rejects into new favorites
Like almost all young children, my 5-year-old son has certain, shall we say, strong preferences about what he eats. Zephyr loves peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, but only if I cut the crusts from the whole-wheat bread. Apple slices are a preferred snack — as long as I remove the peels. Broccoli is his favorite vegetable, but he just eats the bushy florets, never the trunk-like stems.
For years, I dutifully subtracted these shunned parts from preparations. It was the act of a realist who just wanted to get his kid fed without having to navigate an argument to make it happen. That doesn’t mean I was happy about it. Though I usually composted the scraps, I still felt guilty about the waste.
I don’t always have the time or inclination to cater to my son’s whims at the dinner table. So I employ an arsenal of techniques to convince him to try new foods or eat those that give him pause.
One is the “celebrity endorsement.” When he was younger, he wouldn’t touch a mandarin until I told him it was a “Batman orange.” Then he practically ripped it out of my hand and stuffed it into his mouth. He has been a devoted fan ever since.
I also try to present food in intriguing shapes. I’ve accumulated an impressive collection of cookie cutters — dinosaurs, woodland creatures, stars and skulls — which I use to add appeal to new vegetables, fruits, cheeses and sandwiches packed with novel ingredients.
Finally, the Vitamix is our secret weapon. Pretty much any vegetable can be blended into a spaghetti sauce or soup, while new fruits (and even some veggies) can go into smoothies.
None of these techniques have worked particularly well with bread crusts, apple peels and broccoli stems. But earlier this year, while walking out a pile of perfectly good crusts to the composter, I nibbled on one and had a revelation. The browner edge was so tasty, possessing a
nuttier, grainier flavor than the soft part of the slice. Just imagine the bread pudding they would make! Some of the food scraps I was discarding obviously had the potential to be utterly delicious dishes my son would love — if I presented them the right way.
ZA’ATAR-SPICED BROCCOLI STEMS WITH WHIPPED FETA
4 servings Note: Labneh (sometimes labeled labne) is available at larger grocery stores and in Middle Eastern markets.
FOR THE BROCCOLI
4 heads broccoli (with stems attached) 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon za’atar (Middle Eastern spice blend) 1 teaspoon sea salt
FOR THE WHIPPED FETA
½ cup feta cheese ½ cup labneh (see headnote) ½ cup cream cheese 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon honey Sea salt
For the broccoli: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner.
Remove the florets from head of broccoli (freeze for later use or use in another recipe), so you’re left with the stem and smaller branches off of it. Trim off the bottom and any leaves, slice off the skin, and cut into thick rods 3 to 4 inches long and ½-inch in diameter.
In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, za’atar, and salt.
Toss the oil mixture with broccoli stems until they are completely coated. Place on baking sheet in a single layer.
Bake (middle rack) for 25 to 30 minutes until stems are tender and slightly browned.
For the whipped feta: Combine the feta, labneh, cream cheese, fresh lemon juice and honey in a food processor; puree to a whipped consistency, about 8 minutes. Taste, and season with salt, as needed. The yield is about 1½ cups.
Serve the broccoli stems warm or at room temperature, with the whipped feta for dipping.
CINNAMONY APPLE CRISPS
10 servings; makes about 2½ cups
2 tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 10 large apples
Preheat the oven to 225 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone liners.
Whisk together the sugar, cinnamon and lemon juice in a mixing bowl.
Use a vegetable peeler to peel each apple from top to bottom in strips that are about ½ inch wide and 4 inches long, adding them to the bowl as you work. Toss to coat evenly.
Divide the coated peelings between the baking sheets, spreading them in a single layer. Bake (middle rack) for 2½ hours, or until the pieces are thoroughly dried and crisped.
Cool completely before serving or storing.