Smoky and banquet
The weather is starting to play ball, which means one thing: barbecue season is here. Chefs Nathaniel Smith and Genevieve Taylor serve up recipes from their new cookbooks perfect for a flaming June or July.
Jerk chicken
“Jerk chicken is a popular Jamaican dish that is known for its aromatic and spicy flavours,” says Nathaniel Smith, author of new cookbook Flayvaful.
“Jerk chicken is traditionally cooked on a grill over pimento wood and coal, which gives it that distinctive smoky flavour. I like to let mine cook on the barbecue and really soak up that smoke because it honestly penetrates right to the bone. Jerk chicken isn’t jerk chicken without some sweet jerk-spiced ketchup – it’s zingy, it’s sweet and it just adds an extra layer of love to this meat.
“This delicious dish has gained so much popularity all over the world. So fire up your grill and get ready to experience my take on the mouthwatering flayvas of jerk chicken.”
Serves 4-6. Ingredients: 8 skin-on chicken legs; 350-400g wet jerk marinade; 1tbsp all-purpose seasoning; 2 large handfuls of pimento leaves, soaked in water for 1 hour; 3tbsp pimento (allspice) berries, soaked in water for 1 hour; 200ml Jamaican lager. For the lager-spiked honey jerk ketchup: 250g ketchup; 200ml Jamaican lager; 150ml chicken stock (reduced sodium); 200g honey; juice of 1 lime, plus zest of half; 1-2tbsp leftover jerk marinade. For the wet jerk marinade: 2tbsp pimento berries; 1 cinnamon stick; 1 whole nutmeg; 1tsp whole black peppercorns; 7 spring onions; 1 medium onion; 2 Scotch bonnet peppers; 10 garlic cloves; 10 sprigs of fresh thyme; 6 dried pimento leaves (optional); 3 dried bay leaves; 4tbsp dark soft brown sugar; 2tbsp honey; 2tbsp white vinegar; 2tbsp minced fresh ginger; 1tbsp flaky salt; 1tbsp ground allspice; 1tsp black pepper; 5tbsp dark soy sauce; 4tbsp fresh lime juice; 4tbsp fresh orange juice; 3tbsp olive oil; 2tbsp Worcestershire sauce; 1tbsp browning.
Make the wet jerk marinade: The first thing you want to do is toast your pimento berries, cinnamon stick, whole nutmeg and peppercorns in a pan over medium-high heat for a few minutes or until fragrant. Now you want to grind your toasted spices until coarse. If you don’t have a spice grinder, you can simply add all of these ingredients to the blender, minus the nutmeg. You’ll need to grate in the nutmeg before blending. Now add all the remaining ingredients to the blender and blitz until smooth. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to two weeks. You can also freeze this in cubes and defrost when ready to use; however, it will lose some potency.
For the jerk chicken: Pat the chicken legs dry, then poke carefully with a knife to create some holes. Season with the wet jerk marinade and all-purpose seasoning, carefully separating the skin from the legs to get it all up in there. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.
Remove the chicken from the fridge and let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Prepare a charcoal grill (with a lid) for indirect cooking – this means you want your coals on one side and the other side to have no coal under the grates where your meat will sit. You’re looking for a temperature of 150160°C and the majority of your coals should be white. You can cook at a higher temperature, but I personally prefer more of a low and slow method. You don’t want too much coal as you will “bun up the chicken”. You can add coal later to maintain the temperature.
Now oil your grates. Opposite the coals, you want to create a layer using two-thirds of the soaked pimento leaves and a few of the pimento berries; it’s fine if some fall through the grates. You essentially want the leaves as a bed for the chicken. Shake off the excess marinade from the chicken and place it skin-side up on the leaves. Close the lid and leave to cook for 15 to 20 minutes. You want your top vents completely open and bottom/side vents half to twothirds open.
While the chicken is cooking, spray it with lager every 15 to 20 minutes to keep it nice and moist.
To prepare the larger-spiked honey jerk ketchup, put all the ingredients in a pan, bring to the boil and simmer over medium heat until it can coat the back of a spoon.
Open the barbecue lid, rotate the chicken pieces so that the ones closest to the coals are now on the opposite side. Check if you need to add more coal to maintain the heat, then place the remaining pimento leaves on the hot side of the grill – it’s going to get smoky! Close and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes.
Now rotate the chicken again, give it another spray of lager, dash your remaining berries directly onto the coals and cook until the thickest part of the chicken has an internal temperature of 80°C.
Once the chicken is at 80°C, spray it once more with lager and place it directly over the coals to gain some colour and char. You’re going to want to turn the chicken regularly because it is cooked at this point. Once the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 84°C and has gained some nice bits of char, pull it off the heat. You can also leave the chicken on the indirect side with no coals if you want to keep it warm. Some people like to brush their chicken with some of the lager-spiked sauce at this point, but that’s optional.
Allow the chicken to rest for five to 10 minutes before chopping your legs into four to five pieces with a cleaver. Serve with plantain, rice and peas, coleslaw and lashings of your lager-spiked sauce.
Trout, asparagus and orange with mint garlic oil
Cookbook writer and live fire expert Genevieve Taylor is a big fan of cooking fish on the barbecue – and this summer, she’s choosing trout over salmon.
She calls this dish “simple colourful little skewers using diced trout fillet”, served with asparagus, orange and a mint garlic oil.
“When asparagus is not in season, sub in tenderstem or purple sprouting broccoli. As is often the case, a little fresh herby hint postcooking, this time via a minty oil, really elevates the whole dish.”
Serves 4. Ingredients: 500-600g chunky trout fillets, skinned; 200g asparagus, washed and trimmed; 1 orange; 2tbsp olive oil; flaked sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. For the mint garlic oil: a good handful of mint leaves, about 15g, finely chopped; 100ml olive oil; 1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste; 1-2tsp red wine vinegar, to taste; you will also need 8 metal skewers.
Dice the trout into 3cm chunks. If you have thinner sections on one side of the fillets, you can stack them to make thicker pieces. Cut the asparagus into similar-sized lengths. Leaving the skin on, slice the orange in half, then into quarters and cut into little wedges.
Thread everything alternately onto metal skewers, double skewering if you can to make life easier for yourself. Drizzle generously with the olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper. At this point you can slide it into the fridge for a few hours until you are ready to cook.
Fire up the barbecue ready for hot direct grilling, letting the coals fully burn, and set a grill tray over the fire to get hot. Scoop the mint leaves into a small bowl. Stir through the olive oil, garlic and red wine vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Take the skewers to the grill and set on the hot grill tray. Cook for a couple of minutes each side until the trout is golden and crisp. Try to avoid turning the skewers until the crust has formed to minimise the chance of sticking.
Serve drizzled with the mint oil, and don’t forget to nibble the orange flesh off the skin as you eat.