On and off bucket list
Would you like ice with that? Christine Austin selects the best rosés for sipping this summer, be it with cubes in the glass or just keeping the bottle chilled.
APPARENTLY today is National Rosé Day and, while I normally ignore these artificial marketing days, the recent good weather and the fact that the supermarket shelves are now groaning with new vintage rosés has made me turn my attention to this must-have sunshine wine. Which brings me to the important dilemma – ice outside or inside the glass?
There was a period last summer when it just wasn’t enough to chill a bottle of rosé. Daytime temperatures were so high that by the time there was food was on the plate and wine poured in the glass, it really wasn’t cold enough. And rather than put wine glasses in the freezer, which brings its own complications, I have to confess that I resorted to adding an ice cube or two. The downside is that ice dilutes the flavours, but on the positive side, if the afternoon is to be spent sipping wine, then a slightly lower-alcohol drink does mean that the sipping can last longer.
Not all rosé wines are suitable for the ice treatment; there are many that are so pale and delicate that an ice cube overwhelms the flavours. But if the sun does shine long and hot this summer, then I have selected some wines that can withstand this treatment. And if you prefer to keep the ice out of the glass, you can always put the whole bottle in an ice bucket, which works well, especially if you use a mix of ice and water and keep topping up the ice. So, the option is – ice in the bucket or in the glass?
ICE IN THE BUCKET
■ Amandla Blush Rosé 2022, South Africa, Sainsbury’s, down from £9 to £7.50 until Tuesday: Made from Chenin Blanc with a splash of Pinotage, this has fresh raspberry and strawberry fruit with a soft, food-friendly finish. Team with sausages and burgers.
■ Specially Selected Riesling Blush, Marlborough,
New Zealand, Aldi, £9.99: Dry, zesty and delicious, this has all the freshness of good Riesling without the usual tang of sweetness that sometimes gets in the way. And there’s light raspberry fruit too. Perfect with a plate of grilled fish.
■ Mirabeau en Provence Rosé 2022, Côtes de Provence, France, Waitrose, down from £12.99 to £9.99 until July 4: Mirabeau has a fine range of wines, spread across the major retailers, from top-notch Provence rosés to perfectly good Vins de France. Frankly I haven’t found one I don’t like, but you get more nuances of flavour and more precision as you climb the price and quality ladder. This is from Provence, and it has clear red berry fruit, a gentle balance of acidity and a long, refreshing finish. Of all the wines in the Mirabeau range, this one has perfect balance and harmony.
■ Myrtia Moschofilero Assyrtiko Dry
Rosé 2022, Greece, Marks & Spencer, £10:
I am astonished at the sheer quality of Greek wines now on the shelves. Try this blend of two Greek grapes, the pink skinned Moschofilero and white Assyrtiko, for its cherry fruit, wrapped in crunchy minerals and ending with a saline tang.
■ Tommasi Chiaretto 2022, Bardolino, Italy, Co-op, £10.50: Delicate and scented with raspberry and cherry fruit, this is perfect alongside a seafood pasta dish.
■ Finest Sancerre Rosé, 2022, France, Tesco, £13: Made from 100 per cent Pinot Noir grown in the Loire, this is elegant, precise and
perfect for a summer supper. Cherry and raspberry fruit with a long, clean, fresh finish.
■ Lark Song English Rosé 2021, Kent, England, Marks & Spencer, £15: From Balfour winery, this is the same mix of grapes that it uses for its sparkling wines, with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay and just a splash of Regent. Full of redcurrant and strawberry fruit, backed by citrus freshness.
ICE IN THE GLASS
■ Specially Selected Coteaux de Béziers Rosé, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, Aldi, £6.99: Packed with dark cherry and redcurrant fruit and backed by peachy notes and lime. There is enough flavour here to cope with several ice cubes and it could even accompany a skewer of grilled garlic prawns.
■ Welmoed Rosé 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa, Co-op, £7: Made from 100 per cent Shiraz grapes, this is bursting with ripe strawberry fruit, laced with orange zest.
■ The Best Pinot Grigio Rosé, Italy, Morrisons, £7.75: If you love Pinot Grigio, then you will like this. Essentially fresh pear and melon fruit flavours with a hint of red berries from local red grapes. Perfect over ice.
■ Mare Meua Pinot Noir 2022, Valencia, Spain, Asda, £7: A glance at the label of this wine showing a classic beach scene instantly makes you want to book a summer holiday.
But if you have to stay home, then a couple of ice cubes in a glass of this cherry and strawberry-filled Pinot Noir works almost as well. Drink on its own or team with grilled scallops.
■ Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose 2022, Coteaux de Béziers, France, Waitrose, down from £9.99 to £7.49 until July 4: Sophie Valrose was a 19th century vineyard worker who stood up for women’s rights, and I am sure she would have liked this wine. Pale in colour, dry and delicate in flavour, it has wild strawberry fruit and a textured, elegant finish.
■ The Best Vinho Verde Rosé 2022, Portugal, Morrisons, £8: Made from the Espadeiro grape, which is normally used for the relatively rare red Vinho Verde. As a rosé, it is terrific, with cranberry and raspberry fruit and almost a touch of spice. Pour over ice and team with spicy snacks and ham.
■ Hampton Water 2022, Languedoc, Gerard Bertrand, Majestic, £13.99 on a mix-six deal: Rock star Jon Bon Jovi spent his summer holidays in the upmarket Hamptons, so when he decided to create his own wine brand, he called it after that place. But the wine comes from the South of France, and he has teamed up with Languedoc winemaker Gérard Bertrand to produce this stylish Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre blend. Delicate in colour, but with a robust mid-palate full of crushed raspberry fruit this is a rosé that can definitely withstand an ice cube.