The movement

If futurologists are to be believed (and the clue’s in the job title) veganism is the tip of the iceberg lettuce in the ethical eating movement. From the war against plastic to transparency in the food chain, cooking with a conscience has arrived.

Leading the charge is the zero-waste movement, and one of the pioneers on the UK scene is Silo. Conceived from ‘a desire to innovate the food industry while respecting the environment’, the Brightonbased restaurant is doing just that. From trading with farmers using reusable urns, jars and crates for transportation, to churning their own butter and using plates made from plastic bags, Silo has ripped up the restaurateur rule book

(and knowing them, probably recycled and refashioned it as a menu). Look out for the book, due later this year.

In London, there’s Bulk Market – the first zero-packaging food shop, which opened in Hackney last September – and Rubies In The Rubble, a sustainable food brand creating relishes and chutneys from unsold fruit and vegetables.

So, are we all becoming better people? ‘The craft and artisan movements that have swept through the food and drink industry in the past few years have fostered an interest among consumers in the stories about the food and drink that they buy,’ says Jenny Zelger, food and drink analyst at Mintel. ‘In 2018, we predict that companies will be more specific in their claims about human and animal welfare, including stories of the farmers and details about animal treatment.’ You see, in Britain, it’s not just about what’s on your plate, but how it got there, too.