Travel: Bangkok
With exquisite temples and tantalising food, the capital of Thailand is a feast for the senses
The sun is setting in Bangkok and I feel I’ve found a wondrous place of serenity in a hectic city as I absorb the beauty of Wat
Pho, a Buddhist temple complex, in the evening light.
Set just off the Chao Phraya, the river that cuts through the Thai capital, it’s a fabulous sight; the sun glitters on the intricate mosaic tiling on the temples, a dazzling spectacle of gold, reds, greens and blues. And visiting in the late afternoon, after many of the day’s visitors have left, offers a particularly peaceful time to explore it.
Famed for its vast 46-metre Reclining Buddha, covered in gold leaf with the soles of Buddha’s feet inlaid with mother of pearl, Wat Pho is also the country’s earliest centre for public education and the national headquarters for the teaching and preservation of Thai medicine, including the renowned Thai massage.
Taking a break
I decided to give my feet some respite from sightseeing and have a traditional Thai foot massage, and while I winced as the masseur set to work with their strong hands and wooden reflexology implement, the effect afterwards was amazing.
Just a short walk away lies the Grand Palace, arguably the city’s most famous landmark. The ground was consecrated in 1782 and the Grand Palace served as a significant royal residence until the 1920s, but is now used for ceremonial purposes only.
I gazed in awe at the grandeur of the buildings and the extensive murals, depicting scenes from Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian epic Ramayana, that line many of the walls of the compounds.
It’s also home to the Wat Phra Kaew – Temple of the Emerald Buddha, where its greatly revered namesake, which was carved from a single piece of jade, is kept.
For a bird’s eye view of the city head to Wat Arun, which means Temple of the Dawn, and climb the 82-metre central ‘prang’, a vertiginous structure with steep steps leading to its top. It’s a rather arduous climb, and not for those scared of heights, but the rewards for the effort are fantastic; it sits on the river and offers wonderful vistas of the city
Food, glorious food
And if you have worked up an appetite absorbing all that culture, you won’t be short of
places to eat. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to eat well in Bangkok – you can pick up delicious street food, such as satay sticks and Pad Thai, a noodle-based dish with prawns and chicken, for very little.
But there are more refined options too, such as the imposing Mandarin Oriental, built in 1876, which stands proudly on the banks of the Chao Phraya, which has a rich history of attracting literary figures including Noël Coward, Graham Greene and Joseph Conrad. You can dine under twinkling lights at the Riverside Terrace restaurant, or take afternoon tea in the newlyrestored colonial-style Authors’ Lounge, which features photos of the famous writers who have stayed at the hotel over the years.
They offer a ‘Western’ afternoon tea where you can savour cucumber and dill sandwiches and green asparagus tips on sourdough bread, and an ‘Oriental’ version, with delicacies including lime-marinated crabmeat sandwiches with lemongrass and chilli.
One foodie highlight was sitting in the courtyard of the city’s Mango Tree restaurant, with Thai music playing and dancers performing, as I feasted on Som Tum Thai, a spicy green papaya salad, and Pad Priew Wan Goong, a sweet and sour dish.
And for a decadent end to the evening, head to the Moon Bar, on the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel where you can sip cocktails and take in the view in the open-air bar.
One of my favourite parts of