Tryfan’s Heather Terrace, Snowdonia
Discover a sneaky circular of this classic Snowdonia summit; perfect for a short autumn or winter day without the snow.
Afirst visit to Snowdonia may miss Tryfan; for many, their eyes too centred on Eryri’s highest mountain, Snowdon, to the south. But what a rugged piece of mountain to miss! With its ‘three heads’ or rocky tops (Try-fan) perched upon an uprising explosion of volcanic rock, it reminds one of a scaly dinosaur or sleeping dragon, with its scales pointing to the skies above. It doesn’t take people long to discover the delights of Tryfan’s relatively compact standing, but its height still extends to (just) over 3000ft and, on all its impressive aspects, it rises sharply from the valley floor below.
Some aspects and routes of this concentrated mountain are for roped, rock climbing adventures only; and there are a myriad of lines for the keen mountain walker and scrambler to enjoy on its North Ridge. But what about an adventure on a shorter winter’s day when the weather may not be presenting the alpine, snow-covered peaks that were hoped for? A southern circuit of tremendous Tryfan, using the clever Heather Terrace, can elicit a rocky adventure of its own, for those who are happy to leave the North Ridge for a longer day out.
SH659601 Leave the car park by the eastern swing gate and you’re straight into a boulder field – a good test-bed for your footwear and balance. Head for a stile, higher up the slope and crossing a stone wall. You have Tryfan’s Milestone Buttress above on your right and a path on the other side of the wall.
SH663601 A path now gains height quickly through rocky ground and boulders; always look for signs of worn and eroded rocks. This route is cutting underneath broken ground and contouring around the mountain, not straight up. You are aiming for Tryfan’s eastern flanks, avoid cutting up any false paths that look to be escaping your general route. Break out to more open slopes and scree, but still gently rising, until you round the lower slopes of Tryfan and are looking out over an easterly aspect, sheltered from westerly winds.
SH667599 Facing east, you will be above a small gully where another path ascends from Gwern Gof Uchaf farm and Tryfan Bach. This gully path is joining the Heather Terrace, and so are you from this point. Keeping Tryfan’s slopes on your right, head south-south-west by way of an awkward step across this gully, and out again. Ahead is now the slightly obscure but strong line of the ‘Heather Terrace’ cutting its way along Tryfan’s eastern aspect. It’s a fantastic traverse also used by climbers to access different rock buttresses and gullies, but your walking line will follow boulders and a rough path, gradually rising. You need to make a full journey along this path, without cutting up any gullies. Distance covered will be less than 1km, but it will take some time over rocks.
SH663591 Keep abreast of your location and distance travelled. Here you are looking to ascend steeply up scree and grass to a stone wall and a stile, as the Heather Terrace ‘runs out’. You are now looking up at Tryfan’s rocky, Far South Peak on your left, and Tryfan’s main bulk on your right. The low point on the ridge above you is your target. Cross a stile over the stone wall. From here, the journey takes in rocky steps and boulders, taking a rising line, slightly to the west (your left) of the crest of the South Ridge. More complex scrambling and larger rocky columns offer difficulty to your right here; keep trending left and there is always a worn path and route of least resistance that many have followed. Keep on this route and it emerges to a boulder field of rock-hopping fun. The most complex area of rock is just before the summit, with an exposed scramble move to gain a rocky platform. Remember this move, to return to it on descent (work out how you will get down it, while you’re here). Atop this final scramble move, the summit of Tryfan lies ahead – a welcome area of flatter rock – along with the impressive Adam and Eve summit columns.
SH664593 Retrace steps to South Ridge to descend, returning down the final scramble move. You are heading for Bwlch Tryfan, at the base of the South Ridge, so descend past the stile you accessed from the Heather Terrace and the path becomes more distinct below 820m. Reach a stone wall and stile at Bwlch Tryfan.
SH662589 Heading towards Llyn Bochlwyd (lake of the ‘grey cheek’), the descent path is quite obvious relative to previous ground; enjoy views into Cwm Bochlwyd beneath you and the peaks above Ogwen Cottage, notably Yr Garn. Descend to an indistinct break away from the path, just after a small stream crossing.
SH656593 Head north-north-east over a grassy rise into a flat, boggy area, keeping right of the wet ground, underneath rocky outcrops. You are heading towards what looks like the edge of the world, above the road.
SH657597 Upon descent you will see a short, steep, rocky path (more like a stream in wet weather) descending towards flatter ground, beneath Bochlwyd Buttress. Pick up an improving path, through grass, as it descends back towards the car park.