My City Grenada
ADOPTED LOCAL, MOLLY SEARS- PICCAVEY, TAKES US FOR TAPAS AND A TOUR AT THE HEART OF ANDALUSIA
* There’s no better way to get to the heart of a city than through the people who live there. Every month we ask someone, clearly in love with their city, to take us on a personal tour and tell us what makes it so special. You may feel inspired to visit one day or to rediscover the charms of a city closer to you, but for now just sit back, relax and enjoy some armchair travel.
How long have you lived in the city?
I’m originally from Nottingham but moved to Spain in 1998. I lived in Barcelona for many years, then moved to Granada in 2006, although I first visited in 2000.
Tell us what makes your city unique.
The last bastion of Al-Andalus, Granada was under Muslim rule for almost 800 years. It’s very different from other Spanish cities – the architecture and the cuisine have clear Arabic traits. The geography is pretty special, too. The province has sub-tropical microclimates and also the Sierra Nevada mountain range, including Mulhacén – the highest point on the Iberian Peninsula at 3,479m.
What’s it like in April?
April is busy in Granada. Semana Santa – Easter week – is an important time in the local calendar. For many, it’s the first time since Christmas that they’ve had some time off work. And it’s usually the beginning of warmer weather. The city’s Easter processions start on Palm Sunday and last until Easter Sunday. In each procession, between two and five ‘brotherhoods’ walk through the city with images from the Easter story. These groups consist of many participants: penitentes wearing pointy hoods form the main part of the procession; camareras are ladies dressed in black lace who accompany the virgin figure; the costaleros bear the wooden floats carrying the religious sculptures.
Locals may abstain from eating meat at Easter, sticking to fish dishes or chickpea and spinach stew, and traditional sweets, such as Torrijas ( like French toast) and leche frita, appear in bakeries.
What time of day do you most enjoy?
Sunset is beautiful in Granada – corals, pinks and lilacs fill the sky most months. It’s particularly pretty from viewpoints in the Sacromonte and Albaicín quarters.
What’s the nature like?
There’s lots of vegetation, trees and wooded areas within Granada itself, thanks to water from the Sierra Nevada above the city and the two rivers: Genil and Darro. The Alhambra palace is located inside a thick
woodland. There are many walking and cycling trails that start in the city with plenty of vantage points where you can see the mountains or the Alhambra.
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
Carmen de los Mártires, a large public park within the Alhambra woods that has good views over the city and a large pond. There are also peacocks and ducks.
Tell us about the colours of your city.
Terracotta, deep reds and golds most represent the city. Summers are very long and extremely hot, so reds suit it. The Alhambra is known as the Red Castle and the symbol of the city is the pomegranate.
Tell us more about the people who live there
Although locals may not seem easy to get to know, once you’ve spent some time here, you’ll find they’re friendly and warm. There’s also an important student presence as the University of Granada is popular with students on Europe’s Erasmus programme.
Where are your favourite places to go with friends?
On a weekend morning we often go for a walk through the main town or around the lower Albaicín (the hill opposite the Alhambra), particularly along the Paseo de los Tristes, next to the river Darro. It’s nice to stop for coffee and cake at Café Lisboa (Plaza Nueva) or Minuit (Calle Colcha, 6). In the evening, I like to go to Bohemia Jazz Café (Plaza de los Lobos, 11) or Lemon Rock (Montalbán, 6) to listen to live music.
Tell us about eating in your city.
There’s a great variety of food produced in the region. The Costa Tropical is a source of fish and tropical fruit such as chirimoya, papaya and mangos. Good-quality olive oil and mountain ham ( jamón serrano) are made nearby, and there are plenty of vegetables and locallyproduced beer and wine. Dishes tend to be seasonal – in summer, cold soups such as gazpacho and salmorejo are popular, whereas in crisper, colder weather, heartier stews and meat dishes are more typical.
What’s your favourite way to get about the city?
“Terracotta, deep reds and golds most represent the city – the Alhambra is known as the Red Castle”
Granada is easy to walk around and it rarely rains. The areas most visited by tourists – the Alhambra and Albaicín – are on hills, whereas locals tend to stick to the historic centre, lower Albaicín or Realejo.
What shops do you most like to visit?
Local businesses that are family-run or independent. One of my favourites is a basket and wicker shop called
Espatería San José that’s just below the cathedral on Calle Jáudenes. It’s been trading for four generations and everything is made by local artisans using natural materials. I particularly love the olive-wood salad bowls and the wicker tote bags with leather straps.
Where do you like to escape to?
Just south of the city is the Alpujarra region where whitewashed villages perch up high on the mountainsides. You can find great country-style food and many artisan shops selling colourful jarapa rugs and homemade baked goods. Bubión and Capilerilla are two villages that are well worth exploring.
What has been your best discovery about your city?
The water system designed in medieval times completely fascinates me. The Aljibes (water tanks) that stored water in the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries still stand today and are visible in the Albaicín quarter. If you didn’t know what you were looking for, they could pass totally unnoticed.
What do you miss most if you’ve been away?
The afternoon stroll, or paseo. At around 6pm or 7pm, it’s typical to take a walk by the river or down one of the main avenues. I also miss the seasonal produce.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
The free tapas system – each bar offers a free tapa when you order a drink. Mealtimes in southern Spain also surprise visitors. Dinner isn’t served until 9pm, and much later in summer months.
What one thing would you change about the city?
I’d like some areas to have more pedestrianised streets. Many are open to traffic and are often quite narrow.
Where would you recommend somebody to stay?
My favourite high-end options are Hotel Alhambra Palace ( h-alhambrapalace.es) and Hospes Palacio de los Patos ( hospes.com). The former is within the Alhambra’s grounds with great views across the city from some of its rooms and its terrace bar. It’s one of the oldest five-star hotels in Spain and has been run by the same owners since 1910. Palacio de los Patos is in the city centre and has an Andalusian-style patio garden and modern rooms. If you prefer the Albaicín quarter, the lower Albaicín is best as it’s closer to the city. Hotel Casa 1800 ( ) is a boutique-style property with views of the Alhambra.
What keeps you here and where else would you live?
I appreciate the social nature of the city. The society is very inclusive and everyone is involved in annual festivities. I used to live in Barcelona and would happily return there. I’m a city girl at heart and any major Spanish city would probably suit me.