Tallinn, Estonia

Friday, midday

Check into the deeply historic Hotel Schlossle (doubles from £119, www. schloesslehotel.com), a luxury bolthole at the heart of the old town set in impressively restored townhouses.

1pm

The landmark Old Town Square is the city’s heart in every way. Settle into a pavement café for lunch with a view of the vaulting town hall and one of Europe’s finest medieval centres.

2pm

Strike up the cobbles to the Toompea Castle district, which sits above the old town with a series of viewpoints unveiling the grandeur of this mini Prague and its Baltic Sea location.

3pm

Also up in Toompea is the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, which dates from 1900. It is Tallinn’s most dramatic orthodox building and flags up the city’s strong Russian connections and is crowned by striking black onionshaped domes.

8pm

Vanaema Juures (Grandma’s Place) is an authentic old school restaurant in the old town that dishes up the sort of hearty dishes served up in villages outside the capital. It’s charmingly cosy too with its basement setting and candle-lit tables.

Saturday, 9am

Head out of the centre to Kadriorg Palace, which was commissioned by Peter the Great in honour of his wife, Catherine. This lavish baroque palace is home to an art gallery and is surrounded by immaculately laid out gardens.

1pm

With mercurial chef Heidi Pinnak at the helm Sume is a New Nordic gem that takes local classics and reinvents them with a playful twist.

2:30pm

The Estonian capital boasts a fascinatingly rich history – learn more at the Tallinn City Museum. Housed in a 14th-century building it sweeps from Soviet times on to the country’s independence in 1991.

7pm

Stenhus is a hotel restaurant worth staying in for. The country’s rich culinary larder is explored with smooth service and fine wines completing the beguiling mix. Settle in for a long night of perfectly cooked game dishes and Baltic seafood.

Sunday, 8am

Get up early to stroll through the old town without the crowds. The centuries peel back at every turn as you ease back up to Toompea. From its lofty heights you can watch Tallinn blinking awake. ■ Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly from Edinburgh to Tallinn from £62.98 return.