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Exploring Tyrolean pistes

There’s a small windswept town in the Kingdom of Fife where you’ll find a charming turreted mansion sheltered from the elements by its ten-acre grounds. As well as this leafy country house hotel, the Auld Grey Toon in question also boasts a few golf courses and a 600-year-old university, neither of which need much in the way of introduction.

It comes as no surprise that many of the guests at Rufflets – a four-star hideaway only five minutes’ drive from St Andrews – are golfers or the visiting families of students.

For the former, it’s a chance to follow in the footsteps of three-times Open champion Jack Nicklaus, who counts the hotel among his favourites.

The story of Rufflets and the Golden Bear is one of an up-and-coming young golfer who found himself with nowhere to stay after making the cut in the Open. With no rooms available, he was offered a camp bed and a quiet corner at Rufflets and repaid the kindness by staying there with his family every time St Andrews hosted the championship – twice returning with the Claret Jug.

In his final thank you letter in 2005, he wrote: “Our stays at Rufflets Country House over the past 40-plus years have become as much a part of our experience in Scotland and St Andrews as the Old Course itself.”

The reasons for our own late summer stay were two-fold; a weekend of rest and relaxation and a chance to swing our clubs on the hallowed St Andrews links.

We were impressed by the warm welcome and friendly staff. The hotel delivers luxury and sophistication without unnecessary airs and graces.

Our classic double room – one of 24 bedrooms – was elegant, spacious and extremely comfortable with a contemporary, yet homely feel.

With its golf concierge service, the hotel is keen to introduce guests to the Fife Golf Trails, showcasing more than 40 courses, from the worldfamous to hidden gems. Staff will also direct you to local beaches, walks and the East Neuk’s quaint fishing villages.

We opted to play the New Course, the second course at the Home of Golf, dating back to 1895. While it lacks the cachet of its older neighbour, it shares the same iconic backdrop – returning towards the R&A clubhouse – and is considered by many locals as the “best track” on the links. At £80 a round it was also a lot cheaper than the Old Course (£180) and there’s no need to enter a ballot. The signature seaside gorse

and gaping pot bunkers are equally challenging on both courses, so you won’t feel short-changed. Back at the hotel, afternoon tea was a real treat. We were lucky enough to enjoy ours on the terrace in warm September sunshine.

We were also keen to try out Seasons restaurant, a new dining experience introduced at Rufflets earlier this year.

Following the expansion of the hotel’s kitchen garden, head chef David Kinnes draws inspiration from the seasons to create regularly changing menus, using fresh garden ingredients and locally-sourced produce (including wild mushrooms from a trusted forager).

While the à la carte offering is updated every few weeks, the Chef’s Market Menu (£40 for three courses) changes daily.

We opted for starters of garden beetroot, served with confit garlic sourdough, black crowdie beetroot meringues and damson gel, along with hand-dived scallops, served with East Neuk crab spring roll with yuzu.

Equally impressive were our mains of rump of Perthshire lamb with

Clockwise from main: the exterior of Rufflets; Seasons restaurant; one of the bedrooms

fondant potato, garden kale and lamb jus, and guinea fowl with broad beans, Scottish girolles and tarragon jus.

For us, the highlight of a wonderful dessert menu was the coconut panna cotta with poached rhubarb and baby mint.

Appetites sated, a glowing amber display of single malt whiskies seemed to draw us towards the cosy bar with a strangely hypnotic force.

How better to reflect on the weekend than with nightcap in one hand, scorecard in the other?

Unforgettable golfing experience, tick. Rest and relaxation, tick.

Oh to return in winter when there’s a crisp white frost on the lawn and logs burning on the open fire. ■

A classic room costs from £150 in winter up to £305 high season, based on two people sharing and includes

full Scottish breakfast and VAT. For more information see www.rufflets. co.uk or phone 01334 472594. Readers of The Scotsman can enjoy a dinner, bed and breakfast stay at the hotel in a classic twin or double room between 21 October and 23 December

from £150 per room, per night, based on two adults sharing. The St Andrews Links Trust can be contacted via www.standrews.com

An unforgettable golfing experience. Tick. Rest and relaxation. Tick