The Press and Journal (Aberdeen and Aberdeenshire)
How to put bite into sandwiches
Sarnie connoisseur Max Halley makes Prudence Wade one of his specials – and reveals the secrets of the perfect recipe
It’s crunchy, salty, tangy, herby, soft and fragrant – the ideal combination for a sandwich. But this is no average sandwich. This is a sandwich made, in front of me, by Max Halley – sandwich expert, Sunday Brunch regular and owner of cult North London restaurant, Max’s Sandwich Shop (what else would it be called?). You won’t get a few cold cuts slammed between slices of bread. Halley’s approach is far bigger and bolder – his mantra is blunt: “It’s a meal, not a snack.”
The sandwich Halley, 41, makes for me is fried spring rolls inside fresh focaccia, with a funky vegan mayonnaise, kimchi mixed with sauerkraut, sesame seeds and a whole lot of fresh herbs, called That’s How We Spring Roll.
It’s absolutely delicious and very much a meal. The filling isn’t typically what you’d have between two slices of bread – his other creations include the lasagne sandwich or the shop’s bestseller, the ham, egg and chips.
“I tend to think of dishes and plates of food, then think about how to turn those into a sandwich – because sometimes if you try to think about a sandwich, you end up just making a deli sandwich,” Halley says.
With a culinary background, Halley had the opportunity to open a restaurant a decade ago and could have “opened a small plates, modern European restaurant trying for a Michelin star – like other people do”, he says.
“I wanted to take the thing that had mass appeal, but had been a bit neglected. And I thought: ‘Sandwiches.’”
Despite looking like a fairly humble sandwich shop, a lot of work goes on behind the scenes – including fresh bread made daily for every sandwich.
“One loaf makes 10 sandwiches and on a Saturday, we will do 450 covers or something like
that,”
Halley says, which means the team is “banging out 45 loaves on a Saturday”.
A sandwich for him is all about playing “fast and loose” with the concept, which is clear in his new cookbook – his third – called Max’s World Of Sandwiches.
“Is it a bready thing? Yes, it’s a sandwich,” Halley says – though everyone has to draw a line somewhere, and for him it’s open sandwiches. “Stuff on toast is a stretch – even for me!” he exclaims.
He dives into what components are needed for the perfect sandwich. Tangy homemade vegan mayonnaise is slathered on both slices of bread.
“You should always spread with a spoon, not a knife – they’re much better for spreading than knives,” he adds.
The next tip is simple: “The reason why the sandwiches are built in layers is so you can guarantee that every bite contains every element of the sandwich.
“That’s why here we will never put cherry tomatoes in a sandwich, because you end up with one bite that is all cherry tomato, and the next bite is no cherry tomato.
“I think every element should be present in every bite – that just makes it more delicious.”
Black and white sesame seeds are sprinkled over the sauce, then freshly deep-fried spring rolls with homemade pickled veg are then placed on top. Next, comes a mix of vegan kimchi and sauerkraut – for the ultimate hit of funk and tang – and a load of parsley, mint and coriander.
“A lot of the sandwiches here involve herbs and always in large quantity, rather than using lettuce.
“Lettuce is lovely, but its role is freshness, rather than anything else – and herbs, when the sandwich is on the way to your mouth, you smell mint.”
The sandwich ticks every box – in every bite there’s that mix of crunchy spring roll, tangy sauce, fresh herbs and soft bread. As I’m eating, half of it spills out of the sandwich and on to the brown paper below, ready to be mopped up
when I’m finished.
• Max’s World Of Sandwiches by Max Halley and Benjamin Benton is available now. Photography by Robert Billington.
You can guarantee every bite contains every element of the sandwich. That just makes it more delicious