Old Oban and Morvern family
The McKichans go a long way back in the history of Lorn. They helped the MacDougall chiefs in the 1600s at the time of the Covenanters, for which they were rewarded with land and a promise that, as long as there was a MacDougall in Dunollie castle, there would be a McKichan on the estate.
The name comes from the Gaelic, MacFitheachain, the son of the raven, which is the clan bird of the MacDougalls.
McKichan headstones are to be found scattered throughout Lorn’s many graveyards, including that of the Old Parish Church on Glencruitten Road and at Kinlochlaich in Appin, where there is one to John Carmichael, late of Cuil, aged 24, recording he was shot by a Donald McKichan from Oban at Achosrigan on February 7, 1828. Accidentally or deliberately? The details are no longer known in the area.
Charles Combie Campbell McKichan, son of James, a wheelwright in the parish of Kilbride, and his wife Isabella McNichol of Appin, left Lorn for Morvern in 1853 with his wife Jane McIntyre, where they and their son Donald remained for the rest of their lives.
Charles’ motive remains unexplained, but here was an intelligent and intellectual tradesman probably in search of new horizons to advance and promote his skills. He found a willing patron in Octavius Smith (17961871), a successful London distiller who first bought land in Morvern in 1845 and began building at a rate not seen in the parish before or since.
On Octavius Smith’s death, Ardtornish was inherited by his son Thomas Valentine (18251906), a cousin of Florence Nightingale, who continued to enhance the 30,000-acre family property on an even grander scale and at a quicker pace.
Employment rose to upwards of 100, bringing the number of houses on the estate, including the massive Ardtornish Towers at the head of Loch Aline, to almost 50. All this development, especially in a remote area, required a trustworthy and enthusiastic overseer.
Charles McKichan was that man. He began as a joiner, ending up clerk of works when he died suddenly at Achranich on February 5 1900, aged 79. A member of the Free Church, he is buried in Oban.
Rose Cottage by the River Aline is still one of the most attractive houses on Ardtornish estate. It was built in 1871-2 for the McKichans when the dwelling they occupied 300 yards to the north was flooded.
Charles’ son Donald (1858-1954), spent his entire life within half a mile of this cottage where he was born. He was never a night away from his home except when on holiday or business in the south. There cannot be many living on Ardtornish estate or in Morvern today who can say the same.
Donald (1858-1954) worked with his father as a joiner and succeeded him when he died. His courtly manner, attention to detail and standards were equally high and, although he was affectionately known as ‘Donald Mac’, such familiarity was not allowed to enter into his relationship with his fellow employees as they went about their daily chores.
Operating from the Achranich joiner’s shop and store above the garage, the contents of which would put Homebase and B&Q to shame, Donald kept a tight ship, giving out tools and all the paraphernalia required to run a vast organisation from a serving-hatch in a way that would have impressed Tubal-cain himself. Questions were often asked if such and such was really needed and threats made if surpluses weren’t returned to this veritable ‘Holy of Holies’ before the day ended.
After Donald died at Achranich in November 1954, one of his obituarists wrote that Morvern’s seannachie had gone home across that ferry from which no traveller returns and would not be replaced. The author, the parish minister, reminded his readers that Donald, who lies in Kiel cemetery above Lochaline,
had been baptised by the Rev John MacQueen, minister of the Floating Free Church of Strontian, Loch Sunart, and was vaccinated by Dr John Maclachlan (1804-74) the famous Gaelic bard of Rahoy.
He had seen many changes in Morvern, especially the dispersal of its people, for many glens and hamlets, now desolate and almost forgotten, were, in his youth, inhabited by tacksmen and crofters, which probably explains why he was an office-bearer in the Morvern branch of the Highland Land Law Reform Association – later the Highland Land League.
Another eulogist wrote he had participated in the rise of Achranich when Valentine Smith had Ardtornish estate and witnessed its decline.
Donald, who at the time of his death, was the oldest member of Oban Masonic Lodge, Lodge Commercial, had many interesting anecdotes to tell of the old days. The writer concluded by expressing a hope that what he left on record about Morvern’s past, which he loved and respected, would be preserved as a memorial to his name.
Following his retirement in 1944, Donald whiled away the time dictating his memoirs, with the help of notes and a prodigious memory, to his niece, Mrs Charlotte Cameron and her daughter Miss Catherine Cameron, which are a worthy monument to a fine Highland gentleman.
The following are edited extracts in two instalments.
‘Many years ago, in conversation with a man, the name of MacIntyre, a native of Morvern who had a very retentive memory, gave me the number of sheep on each hirsel on the estate [Ardtornish] when he went to Old Ardtornish in 1860. These were: Ardtornish 1,000; Inniemore 550; Eignaig 500; Ternait 900; Achranich 1,300; Claish, or Dhugary 500; Claggan 500; Ullin 600; Claoinlaid, 900; Corrospine and Acharn 1,500; Beinn-na-h’ Uamh, 700; Inniebeg and Inniemore 600 and Achnagaun 600.
‘This large number of sheep (if correct) goes to prove how very much the land has deteriorated in the short space of a lifetime.’
‘I remember when at school in Lochaline, a large paddle steamer named the Montague, with two main decks, fitted up and penned off, suitable for carrying sheep, used to come from Liverpool to the old pier at Lochaline in the autumn to take away the sheep that are usually sold off at that time of the year. I remember it being said at the time that she was capable of carrying between two and three thousand sheep. The cargo was made up of sheep from Ardtornish, Achranich and one or two of the neighbouring estates.
‘To us boys who were at school at the time, the coming of the Montague and the cattle market, which was held twice a year in May and November, were the three chief events which were greatly enjoyed by us. The cattle market was held about 200 yards above the high road and in line with the Dr’s house at Knock.
‘At one time a large number of cattle were sent to the market but as years went on the number became gradually less, until in the year 1876 or 77, the holding of the cattle market was discontinued.’ To be continued next week.