Uisge Beatha
THE SCOTCH whisky industry is a global success. The product is enjoyed by people everywhere and every bottle purchased or dram consumed tells a story of the people and places that make it.
Hundreds of years of tradition, craftsmanship and chemistry confront us on a daily basis: working distilleries all over the place carefully turning water, cereal and yeast into a favourite luxury product, ageing it in wooden casks and shipping bottles to every corner of the earth. Take a look around – Oban (1794), Tobermory (1823), Jura (1963), Ardbeg (1815), Bowmore (1779), Bruichladdich (1881), Bunnahabhain (1881), Caol Ila (1846), Kilchoman (2005), Lagavulin (1816), Laphroaig (1815), Glen Scotia (1832), Springbank (1828), Glengyle (1872), Ardnamurchan (2014) – each of these establishments is entirely devoted to quality, sustains a local workforce and supply chain, and imprints its brand – and a favourable image of Scotland – on the senses of billions.
Distillers and their fine products are to be respected and celebrated, and the tradition of whisky making is a unique Scottish feature that engenders intense pride. The Argyll and the islands region continues to make a major contribution to the industry, which has a rich and colourful history.
For every operational distillery on Islay there are two examples of those lost: Port Charlotte/ Lochindaal (1829-1929), Malt Mill (1907- 62), Mulindry (1826-31), Newton (181937), Octomore (1816- 40), Port Ellen (1825-1983), Scarrabus (1817-18), Tallant (1821-52), Ardenistiel (1836- 6), Ardmore (1817-36), Lossit (1826- 62), Daill (1814-27). There are records of distilleries at Bridgend and Killarow, Ballygrant, Freeport, Glenavullin, Octovullin, Upper Cragabus and Torrylin, some of which were producing spirit in the early 1700s. Some of these names have been resurrected as modern whiskies, nodding affectionately at a noble island history. A ninth distillery at Gartbreck is planned to start production next year, continuing the cycle of production synonymous with Islay.
In the mid-1900s Campbeltown was home to 30 distilleries, and production was geared to major markets in London, Glasgow and North America.
Over-production stalled the market at the start of the 20th century, and the great depression and prohibition of alcohol in the USA forced the majority of these distilleries to close in the 1920s. Names like Campbeltown, Ardlussa, Glenside, Dalintober, Ballegreggan, Burnside, Benmore, Argyll, Albyn, Dalaruan, Hazelburn, Kinloch, Glen Nevis, Longrow, Lochhead, Kintyre and Lochruan were gone by 1930. The Caledonian and Meadowburn distilleries closed at the end of the 19th century, and the Rieclachlan endured until 1934. A handful of these names are once again on the market, produced by the three remaining distilleries in the town.
Glenfyne Distillery in Ardrishaig was established in 1831 and operated as Glendarroch from 1870-87. Production ceased in 1937, the buildings were demolished in the 1980s and replaced with housing. Lochgilphead Distillery closed in 1860.
It doesn’t matter if the whisky is single malt, single grain, blended malt, blended grain or simply blended, it all has to be aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years. Before that, of course, barley is soaked and spread out to germinate or malt, and after about a week the malt is kiln-dried to stop the germination process. Peat may be burned in the fire at this stage to add flavour.
The dried malt is milled to flour and hot water is added to create mash. Active enzymes turn the starch into sugar during this process and the liquid is now called wort. It is cooled, and yeast is added to start the fermentation process. After a couple of days the yeast turns the sugars into alcohol and the wash is transferred to a still. The still is heated and the alcohol is vapourised, passed into a copper coil called the worm and condensed back into a liquid. Now called low wines, the liquid is distilled a second time. The product is a clear spirit that acquires its colour and some flavour characteristics from the barrels in which it matures, as they may previously have contained whisky, bourbon or sherry.
It sounds simple, but each distillery and each whisky has a distinct character, and every measure is a reminder of a great craft tradition, created from the elements with ingenuity and passion. There is no other product that captures the essence of places and people in quite the same way, or has such universal appeal.
Slainte!