Ron’s reviews

SUGO PASTA, 70 MITCHELL STREET, GLASGOW

0141 258 1650

‘I just do not like their pasta. To me it tastes undercooked, way the wrong side of al dente, waxy and as a result the dishes, the sauces and the pasta itself, just do not hang together properly. But, as that queue testifies, what the hell do I know?’

Menu: Pasta but not as you know it. A regionalised selection of Italy’s best with the promise of proper sourcing and freshly made. 4/5 Service: It’s a vast restaurant with big windows, high ceilings, yet filled with the excited buzz of scores of diners queuing to get in. 4/5 Atmosphere: They need to flip tables fast in here so the staff are never far away. Straightforward, pleasant and efficient. 4/5

Price: Have the prices gone up? Not obviously. You can still have a full plate of pasta for just £6. 5/5

The clue is in the name: Their sugos, or sauces, are pretty good, that Italian sausage licoricey, just don’t like the texture of the pasta. 6/10

22/30

SWADISH BY AJAY KUMAR, 33 INGRAM STREET, GLASGOW, 0141 553 0581

‘I would have liked to have Instagrammed the reaction as we picked up menus to choose starters. And saw the prices. Uh, £12, £15, £14, £18, £14, £14 jump out. Just two at £8. For starters? To say Swadish seems to have a big hit for itself is to put it mildly but they have won a restaurant of the year award .... ’ Menu: Lamb nihari biryani, tandoori salmon, poached salmon, Goan monkfish. Ambitious menu with rejig of Indian classics. 4/5

Atmosphere: Slightly awkward up and down seating area in former firestation but pleasant enough. 3/5 Service: Plenty of efficient staff. 4/5 Price: Expect to be hovering around the £20 mark for mains sans sides, and it’s very easy to hit mid teens for starters. Desserts start at £9.50 2/5 Food: Lamb biryani at £22 is worth a trip on its own, the pepper fry satisfying, starters freshly spiced. Some overreaching though so not yet universally good. 8/10

21/30

RESTAURANT AT THE BURRELL COLLECTION, POLLOK PARK, GLASGOW

‘Are you thinking the remodelling of a global treasure like The Burrell has provided the opportunity to do what many other museums have done and open an exciting, possibly even fine dining, independent restaurant befitting the surroundings? Think again. It hasn’t. This is run by some giant corporate blandorama entity .... ’ Menu: Gargantuan Tuna Nicoise,

Chicken Caesars, flatbreads, burgers – amongst the usual scone and soup o-rama. Nothing cutting edge but perfectly okay. 3/5

Service: Table numbers needed for counter ordering, staff deliver on trays. Impersonal. Kind of works 3/5 Price: Nothing unusual about a Nicoise or Caesar Salad but it is fresh, and served in big portions. 5/5 Atmosphere: The Burrell has a kind of magic and the restaurant has that glass-house view of the park. 4/5 Food: Simple. Big portions. Good value. 6/10

21/30

MOWGLI, 78 ST VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW

‘If you’ve missed the memo, and judging by how busy this place is not many have, Mowgli is not just another chain restaurant getting round to opening up in Glasgow. But a whole new way to eat street food...’ Menu: A lot of effort has gone into thinking up new names for Indian dishes that have been about for aeons. Fenugreek Fries, Yoghurt Chat Bombs and Picnic Curries. 4/5 Service: They are clearly ordered to do the tiresome let-me-explain-themenu in detail chat, but helpful. 4/5 Atmosphere: Good buzz. 4/5 Price: Small dishes always equal pretty big bills. That four prawn curry was £8, yoghurt bombs a fiver, mainish dishes are pretty small but don’t top £9. Rice and rotis extra. 3/5 Food: Mowgli may be a chain, but their skill is in packing flavour into low fat Indian food. You’ll probably remember what you ate. 7/10

22/30

KELP, 114 COWCADDENS ROAD, GLASGOW, 0141 332 4032

‘I get what they’re up to. They’ve fired a few straggly seaweedy things at the high open pipework on that ceiling, plunked a moody picture of langoustines on the wall, put up an octopus mural and suddenly it’s a sustainable seafood restaurant. Yet, with its window-hugging booths, glass box vibe and high bar area it has a slightly Sex and the City vibe...’ Menu: Seafood in a small plates style. Interesting-sounding combos including chicken fried skate, coley with ham hock, Tobermory trout. 4/5 Service: Perfectly pleasant. 5/5 Atmosphere: Likeable, comfortable, loft-like decor with booths to watch the world go by at the top of the town across from the Piping Centre. 5/5 Price: It’s fish but they don’t go completely mad with the pricing. Small plates from £7 to £12 though, as usual, it mounts up. 3/5

Food: There isn’t a fish restaurant on every corner because it’s very hard to get right, at a price. They get some right but not enough. 5/10

22/30