Falling for Naomi

As a new V&A exhibition explores the life of supermodel Naomi Campbell, LARA OWEN speaks to curator Sonnet Stanfill

IN a first of its kind exhibition, the V&A’S NAOMI: In Fashion showcases the life of catwalk icon Naomi Campbell.

Having been given “unparalleled access” to Naomi’s own memories, stories and wardrobe, the London museum’s senior fashion curator Sonnet Stanfill says that it provides a truly “unique window into someone who’s become more than a supermodel”.

Over two floors, the exhibition collates garments, mementos and photographs from her 40-year career, exploring her impact on fashion and culture.

“There had been many exhibitions about fashion designers and photographers, but often the model is left out of the story,” says Sonnet. “Naomi Campbell is a clear choice for looking at one model who has used her platform to spotlight the work and creativity of others in the industry, alongside campaigning for equal pay and equal coverage for models of colour.”

But the fashion world was not always the path for the Streatham-born clotheshorse, now 54.

A display case in the exhibition showcases her life before fame in stills from Bob Marley music videos and worn-through ballet slippers.

“When she started out, she never thought she’d be a model,” Sonnet notes. “She trained at the Italia Conti Academy for a career as a dancer.”

The first floor of the exhibit takes visitors through Naomi’s early meteoric rise, touching upon key relationships throughout her career – from Yves Saint Laurent, whom she famously credits for helping her get her first Vogue cover by threatening to pull his advertising unless they cast her, to Gianni Versace and Gianfranco Ferre, who were instrumental in casting models of colour in the late Eighties and early Nineties.

Moments that shaped her growing fame – such as that Vivienne Westwood catwalk fall in 1993 are also remembered.

The mock croc purple platform shoes she was wearing are reunited with the outfit, displayed on a fallen mannequin to mimic the moment.

Other garments featured include the metallic Dolce & Gabbana dress worn on her final day of community service in 2007 (she was sentenced to five days’ community service and ordered to attend an anger management course after she admitted throwing a mobile phone at her maid) and the Valentino 2019 Met Gala gown Pierpaolo Piccioli designed for her.

British designers like Alexander Mcqueen also feature heavily. “The [Mcqueen] crystal and sequined gown she wore to the 2019 British fashion Awards is one of my favourites,” says Sonnet. Naomi was honoured with the Fashion Icon Award at the event.

“Of course, she wanted to wear a British designer, but what’s significant about that dress is not only the craftsmanship of it, but the depth of the relationship with the designer. It’s wrapped up in an intricate web of connections and relationships that cut across decades.”

Naomi’s viral hazmat suit of 2020 also features, accessorised with a Burberry cape.

“It’s a nice nod to the fact that she doesn’t take herself to seriously,” Sonnet smiles of the supermodel’s pandemic get-up, “and that she’s very adapt at using press to capture the moment.”

Surrounding the top mezzanine is a selection of images of Naomi curated by Edward Enninful, former British Vogue editor-inchief, projected across the room. “Having worked with Naomi across both of their careers almost from the very beginning, his eye helped make the edit of what tells the story best,” notes Sonnet. The downstairs features a ‘model’s dressing room,’ with furniture loaned from Claridge’s and garments from Naomi’s own archive. “We’ve tried to evoke the busyness and chaos of a working model by recreating a dressing room that’s been styled by Naomi,” says

Sonnet.

“It suggests a behind-the-scenes glimpse into the world of an on-thego model.”

The exhibition also recognises Naomi’s activism, and cultural impact. We see model cards and books lent by former agents, her Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund T-shirt and photo album snapshots. Sonnet says Naomi transcended being “simply a model of clothes and became a cultural figure and an advocate for causes she believes in. “I think that is the element that will make this exhibition resonate not only with those interested in fashion, but interested in culture more widely.”

■ NAOMI: In Fashion, sponsored by Boss, is at the Victoria and Albert Museum until April 6, 2025, vam.ac.uk

We’ve tried to evoke the busyness and chaos of a working model...

Sonnet Stanfill