Making a fest recovery
Adam Aspinall on how the Covid Oktoberfest cancellation failed to dampen a visit to lively Munich
Coronavirus has messed up a lot of travel plans in the last 15 months – and when Oktoberfest was cancelled I thought there was little point travelling to Munich just to enjoy the city. But as restrictions temporarily lessened last September and Germany seemed to be dealing with the virus well, I thought again and went anyway.
The country was one of the last places in Europe we could then travel to without having to quarantine and it proved a very good choice.
While obviously altered by the pandemic, Munich remains very much the gem it has always been.
Some locals even told me a September without the throngs of foreign visitors was to be welcomed, although there is no disguising the impact it would have on the Bavarian capital’s economy.
Not that you would really have noticed as a first-time visitor, with bars, restaurants and, most importantly, beer halls still open.
Munich’s council cleverly adapted to the cancellation of Oktoberfest by
organising a smaller event with much tighter controls which spanned the city. Called WirtshausWiesn, which translates roughly as ‘we are home’, it was a celebration of the traditional cosiness or ‘gemütlichkeit’ to be had inside pubs and taverns.
The event was spread out over 54 traditional restaurants across the city with all the trappings of Bavarian culture you could imagine.
Oompah music was everywhere, locals celebrated in their traditional outfits of lederhosen and dirndl and there was ample beer, sausages, pork knuckles and obatzda cheese, along with PPE and social distancing.
The digital booking systems for each restaurant and tavern also proved remarkably robust and efficient.
MUST SEE Open air market
While it might feel like all of these controls and requirements to book in advance would dampen the atmosphere – it did anything but and the breweries made sure last year was as special as ever with a slightly stronger brew for 2020.
Munich somehow managed to enjoy itself in spite of it all.
Beyond the beer festival it was also almost business as usual with normal levels of hustle and bustle.
If the beer halls are not for you, there is much more to do in this classy city.
And if it was not for the mandatory face masks outdoors in the centre of the city you could be forgiven for thinking coronavirus had fizzled out completely.
Walking through the splendid neo-Gothic Marienplatz at the heart of Munich felt wonderfully normal.
As did wandering past the striking Neues and Altes Rathaus (New and Old Town Halls) to the welcoming Viktualienmarkt for some sauerkraut outside one of the traditional stalls
– a real treat.
The sprawling open-air market is more than 200 years old and more than 100 busi- nesses offer a wide range of German delicacies. It is a must-see and you can easily while away an afternoon there or buy food for a picnic to eat in the wonderful Englischer Garten.
It is the type of park which befits a stately city such as Munich, which is Germany’s third largest, with a booming economy thanks to businesses such as car giant BMW.
Petrolheads can get their fix at the BMW Driving Academy in Maisach, a former airport just half an hour outside the city. It offers specialised driving courses and classes perfect for any budding Sebastian Vettel (bmw-drivingexperience.com).
But if you long to get away from the city and embrace mother nature, a huge advantage of Munich is its proximity to the Bavarian Alps, which you can see on a clear day.
About an hour away by train or car you have access to beautiful hiking trails and fabulous views.
Munich is also close to several historic castles such as Schloss Nymphenburg which boasts picture perfect grounds and indoor botanical gardens.
All in all, Munich really does seem to have something for everyone.
Sadly, Oktoberfest has fallen victim to the virus again in 2021 but the good news is that WirtshausWiesn will run from September 18 to October 3, with more than 50 venues taking part across Munich. This is a terrific city in its own right, but made even better by the responsibly organised, and thoroughly wonderful, WirtshausWiesn.
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There was ample beer and sausages along with
PPE and social distancing