Joy of gulls aloud
Denis Mann sings the praises of birds, beaches and bitter in Southwold
Peace and quiet is overrated. And don’t expect to flee town in hope of escaping the racket. The country is just as noisy, but it’s a beautiful sound.
At Southwold, on the Suffolk coast, the North Sea crashes on to the stony beaches with the volume turned up to 11. Strangely soothing.
Then there’s the wailing and squabbling of the gulls, adding counterpoint to the cacophony.
Down the coast, at the Minsmere nature reserve, it’s almost deafening.
Seabirds screech, ducks quack and warblers, er, warble.
If you’re lucky, you may hear the boom of a bittern, one of our rarest birds. I did, just once.
Strangely thrilling. I was
continuing my quest to be Britain’s worst bird-watcher at one of the RSPB’s finest centres.
You can borrow a decent pair of binoculars, but I should have saved my fiver. Every bird I ever see with the naked eye is long gone before I get bins focused on the spot. Seen some nice lakes and trees, though.
Minsmere is one of my favourite places. It’s spectacularly beautiful, even with the Sizewell nuclear power station looming over the scene. I like the dash of danger it adds, paradise and potential peril side by side.
Mostly, I’m happy watching a pair of avocets browsing at the water’s edge like an old couple picking their way through a market stall. I’m content never to see a marsh harrier, bearded tit or bittern so long as I know they’re there.
On my second visit of the weekend, with twin four-year-olds in tow, there was even less wildlife to witness as the girls created their own 100 metre social-distancing zone with their excited galumphing.
They loved it, though, and a black-headed gull outside the cafe was a big hit. So was the sausage bap.
Talking of food, come with me to Southwold, where you’ll find the good stuff.
We had a smart apartment over
an art gallery in the High Street, which has plenty of eateries and cafes and a mix of chain stores and boutiques, some of them quite high end.
The lounge was a super eyrie to watch the world go by, and very comfortable, chic even. Everything was spick and span. There was a luxurious walk-in shower in the bathroom and an en suite to the main bedroom. Our girls slept well in the other bedroom on the first floor.
We had a well-appointed kitchen which went untouched because of the attractions a few steps from the front door. Fantastic fish and chips
‘‘ Minsmere is one of my favourite places. It’s spectacularly beautiful
from The Little Fish and Chip Shop (we went twice!).
In the mornings there was lovely bread and pastries from the even closer Two Magpies Bakery, which also does a terrific trade in sourdough pizzas on weekend evenings.
The town has fine dining, too, but with lockdown only easing during my trip it was too cold to sit outside the swanky Swan.
The hotel is the jewel of the Adnams Brewery, whose beers are served in all the town’s pubs, without exception. That’s no hardship. As a northerner, I’m proud of northern beers, but Southwold Bitter is as good as you can get.
The town is great for a wander. Down to the pier, back up the prom, along the beach. Turn covetous eyes to the glorious beach huts with their twee names, daydreaming of what you’d call yours if you ever won the lottery.
Walk off a couple of pints with a yomp round the marshes and fields. From Southwold’s harbour you can get the “ferry” (it’s a bloke in a rowing boat) across the
River
Blyth to Walberswick, where we saw a basking adder by the path.
On the way back, through the reedbeds, I’m sure (but not that sure) I saw a soaring lark, singing fit to burst. Now that is good for the soul. No peace, no quiet. But
strangely calming.
‘‘ Daydream what you’d call your beach hut if you ever won the lottery