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O’s wine expert on the best bottles of fizz to toast the festive season

elebrations have been thin on the ground in 2020, so it’s hardly surprising sales of sparkling wine have lost their fizz, with cancellations of so many weddings, anniversaries and birthdays, as well as sporting and social events, from Ascot to Wimbledon, Glyndebourne to Glastonbury.

For me, it’s at times like these we need sparkling wine the most. Not only to toast seeing the back of this extraordinary year (and, of course, as an essential part of whatever plans we have for Christmas), but also to make the most of more modest occasions – a glass of fizz is always guaranteed to lift the spirits.

Bubbly is made all around the world, in styles to suit all tastes and at prices to fit all pockets. Champagne is the king of fizz, and has been particularly hard hit this year. The 2020 harvest was of exceptional quality but growers have been forced to leave grapes to rot on the vines, and millions of bottles remain unsold. Keep your eyes out for special offers on trusted brands as the festive season ramps up – Pol Roger Brut Reserve NV is on offer for £34 at Waitrose (from 25 November-3 January), a saving of £12. But supermarkets’ own-label champagnes often offer the best value for money – Aldi’s Veuve Monsigny Champagne is a bargain at £12.49, while Tesco’s Premier Cru* (£20) makes a classy but affordable choice. Alternatively, get more French fizz for your francs by looking for crémants – they’re made the same way as champagne but are from different, less prestigious regions. Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Crémant de Loire fits the bill at £11, as does Tesco’s Finest Crémant de Limoux Rosé from the Languedoc (£12). Prosecco-lovers should try Asda’s award-winning Extra Special Prosecco Asolo Brut DOCG* (on offer for £7 from 10-31 December) or Aldi’s Prosecco Superiore DOCG* (£7.49). But for bargain bubbles, I tend to go for cava over prosecco, because it’s usually less sweet. It can be

Kate Hawkings is a writer and wine consultant. Her debut book, Aperitif, was published in 2018. Follow her on Twitter @katehawkings.

Cits own worst enemy when its too acidic and thin, but The Wine Society’s Cava Reserva Brut is a fine choice at only £8.95 (thewinesociety.com). Higher up the scale is Corpinnat, a new sub-region in cava’s home of Penedès, to the south of Barcelona, that produces wines that must be made from organic grapes and aged for at least 18 months on the lees. This makes serious wines that are gloriously complex and delicious.

It’s worth mentioning that if you do get caught short with under-par fizz, it’s easy to cover its flaws by adding a little fruit liqueur – crème de cassis turns it into a kir royale, but sloe or damson gin also work well – or use it in an Aperol or (my favourite) Campari spritz.

English sparkling wine is on a roll, with plenty of boutique wineries springing up alongside bigger, more famous brands. They don’t tend to come cheap but their quality can be outstanding. Try Tickerage Blanc de Blancs 2011, £36 (tickeragewine.co.uk), or Busi-Jacobsohn Classic Cuvée 2018, £38 (busijacobsohn.com), rich with notes of marmalade and spiced biscuits.

Sparkling red wine also deserves a mention. Proper lambrusco is an underrated joy that suits winter drinking, full of dark fruits and refreshing acidity. Good examples are Villa Cialdini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2018, £14.95 (slurp.co.uk), or Lambrusco Classico Monte delle Vigne, £12.95 (leaandsandeman.co.uk).

Non-drinkers needn’t miss out on the fizzy fun. Asda’s Nosecco, £3.50, or pretty pink Belle & Co Sparkling Rosé, £3.50 (Morrisons) both feel suitably celebratory. Serve them well-chilled to take the edge off their natural sweetness.

And, a quick word for sweet sparkles: they’re generally low-ish in alcohol, and can make a refreshing alternative to port or other fortified wines when served chilled with your cheeseboard or pudding. Araldica Moscato d’Asti, £7.99 (or £5.99 in a mixed case of six, majestic.co.uk) is a gentle 5% ABV and packed with fruity, floral charm.

It’s worth giving thought to the glass you use to get the best from your bottle. Flutes are the elegant choice but they’re usually filled to the top and don’t allow the full aromas to show. Coupes have a pleasing retro charm, but their wide openings make the bubbles dissipate too quickly. I tend to use white wine glasses, which have space to swirl the wine, releasing its complexities of fragrance and flavour.

We’re spoilt for choice with sparkling wines, so find an excuse – any excuse – and pop a cork on some fizz.

Delacourt Vintage 2011* (£27, M&S) Impressive vintage champagne – yeasty, complex and slightly honeyed, it makes a very smart aperitif that could also stand up to the crispy galette with butternut squash, feta and olives on p60.

House of Arras Brut Elite NV (£34.99 or £29.99 in a mixed case of six, majestic.co.uk)

The island of Tasmania is cooled by the Antarctic Ocean, making ideal growing conditions for classic champagne grapes. A fine example from Australia’s top sparkling wine producer.

Santa Tresa Il Frappato Rosé (£13.99, drinkfinder.co.uk) Italian fizz goes way beyond prosecco. This comes from Sicily and is fruity but also crisp and elegant. Try it with the prawn laksa with rice noodles on p59.