Our pro says...

We knew we were in for a real treat as soon as we stepped into the cosy space that Chishuru occupies in Brixton Market. The interior has a simple elegance, the dusty pink walls will invoke memories for anyone who’s ever stepped foot on the African continent.

The menu at Chishuru is compact and of few words. It’s the tip of a gastronomical iceberg, which in no way prepares you for the complexity of textures and flavours you’re about to encounter. Luckily, owner and chef Adejoké was available to walk us through it.

We kicked things off with the hibiscus soft drink – the dark berry flavour was balanced and utterly refreshing. Next, we plunged into the frejon – a dish of white beans with the consistency of a light porridge and the texture of refried beans. It’s topped with a black chilli oil and is accompanied by gari (ground and dried cassava) and a northern Nigerian-style flatbread. Scooped together, it provides a moreish mix of umami and chilli.

With iron will, we saved space for the yam. It came with a fragrant aubergine sauce – the medley of aubergines, onions, tomato, red pepper and scotch bonnet gave a delicately sweet and spicy edge to the dish.

I wish there was more room to talk about the other food we ate. I could wax lyrical about the flaky, cornmeal-coated sea bass special that now lives in my dreams. As does the almost festive fried milk dessert – reduced coconut milk deep-fried in a crispy, golden breadcrumb coating and served with a tangy spiced hibiscus reduction.

Chishiru brings refined elegance to West African food without losing its soul, essence or style. You won’t even notice that the menu is mostly vegan and gluten-free until the end – it’s just very tasty food.