National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Into the Galápagos
ON A CRUISE THROUGH THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS, EXPLORATION OF THE ARCHIPELAGO COMES WITH INSIGHTS INTO ITS PRECIOUS ECOSYSTEM. WORDS: LAUREN JADE HILL
I drop from the side of our tender boat into the blue-green water that meets the volcanic shores of Santiago Island. Moments later, a blur of a Galápagos penguin dive agilely through the water between me and one of my fellow travellers. Another of these fastmoving birds weaves through our small group while its companion paddles on the surface before diving beneath the waves in search of schooling fish. It’s not long before we find ourselves amid a group of these aquatic creatures — which are endemic to the islands — and they seem unfazed by our presence.
Our guide, Federico Idrovo, from nearby Santa Cruz, gestures me over in time to catch sight of a 6ft-long whitetip shark emerging from its resting place in a crevice of the rocks. Shoals of yellowtail surgeonfish shimmer by and marine iguanas watch over us from black lava rocks heated by the sun. Just off the shoreline of this island — made up of two overlapping volcanoes — is one of the few places where you can find yourself swimming with the only penguins found north of the equator, among a kaleidoscope of tropical fish.
Earlier this morning, we’d landed on the southeastern side of Santiago, stepping onto the black lava flats of Bahía Sullivan, where cracked crusts and lava tunnels among ropelike and rippled lava formations caused by an eruption. Over the subsequent days, I’m to see the full spectrum of ecosystems across the archipelago, from this stark volcanic terrain to lush highlands roamed by Galápagos giant tortoises and dramatic clifftops, home to the islands’ much-loved blue-footed boobies.
The Galápagos Islands, originally formed by volcanic activity, are situated around 600 miles off mainland Ecuador. The Equatorial, Cromwell, Humboldt and Panama currents all converge around this remote archipelago, with trade winds and upwellings (deep, cold water rising to the surface) from the Pacific Ocean further characterising a climate in which warm water from the north meets cold currents brought up from Antarctica. “Upwellings created by the currents bring whales to the west and then in the north you’ll find more tropical marine life,” said Federico as he drew a map of the islands in the sand.
“That’s what makes the Galápagos so unique — and you can see it in the different wildlife you find as you move between these islands.”
Since Charles Darwin’s visit in 1835, the archipelago has been known for the way its abundant species have adapted, a good example of this being the many subspecies of marine iguana that continue to evolve as they adapt to changing conditions. “I’ve heard about this adaptation since I was a child. Now I get to see it actually happening,” says Federico, illustrating how truly unique the Galápagos is in its ecology and why its protection is of such importance.
HOW TO DO IT
Aqua Expeditions has seven-night journeys, inclusive of meals and experiences, aboard Aqua Mare, from $9,450 (£7,780) per person. aquaexpeditions.com