Regional & Seasonal: The Queens Arms, North Yorkshire

A 17th century inn which makes the most of local produce offers a warm welcome to walkers

Beneath the silver light of a brightening sky, a rolling hillside tumbles down towards an old drystone wall. Other walls shadow its curves, trailing onto the hills and stitching the landscape into a patchwork pattern. Where the land falls into a small fold, a cluster of stone cottages huddle together; a single-track winding between them. Tucked down a narrow lane sits an old, white-painted building, washed in pale light. A warm glow emanates from the windows, offering respite for visitors, their cheeks ruddy with the wind gusting down from the fells. Mud is scraped eagerly from boots as they cross the threshold, making their way towards the small log fire burning within. As pints are pulled, the aroma of ale and woodsmoke fills the air. This is the Queens Arms, a traditional 17th century inn, the oldest part of which dates to 1630.

Nestled in the small village of Litton, near Arncliffe and Kettlewell, the inn lies in the valley of Littondale, in the heart of the idyllic Yorkshire Dales.

“Littondale is central in the Yorkshire Dales National Park and boasts beautiful scenery, with winding country lanes that are favoured by both walkers and cyclists,” says owner Michelle Birtley. “We are also a popular base for the Yorkshire Three Peaks Challenge, with Penyghent only 20 minutes away.”

The inn is family-run by Michelle, her daughter, Lauren, and husband, Matthew, who is also the head chef. “Matthew has a personal connection to the village. His aunt and uncle owned the inn in the 1980s and, in the summer months when he was a child, he used to help out there,” says Michelle. “His mother was also raised on the neighbouring farm, where we now source the lamb for our special Littondale lamb pie.”

Taking on the inn at the beginning of 2019, it has once again become part of the family and is now closely tied to the community. Choosing to support local employment, the staff largely comprises people from the village, and much of the ingredients are sourced from the surrounding area.

“Our main ethos is to buy locally as much as possible,” explains Michelle. “We source fresh fish from a local fishmonger’s in Ilkley, and our fruit and vegetables come from Skipton, less than 20 miles away. We also go to the butcher’s in both Skipton and the small village of Cracoe.” Specials include savoury pies, roast sirloin and rack of pork with steaming hot gravy, and mushroom burgers with chutney and melted cheese.

The traditional, home-cooked food is accompanied by a

selection of malty ales, supplied by the microbrewery on site. “Local entrepreneur Thomas Crapper will be brewing under his new company name, the Lamb Brewing Company, and will produce a bespoke pale ale for the pub. He will also serve a mild and bitter ale,” reveals Michelle. “It’s very exciting.”

Locals sit alongside holidaymakers, chattering at the bar, or at polished wooden tables tucking into warming dishes. Some bask by the open fire, which creates flickers of soft light over the low, oak-beamed ceiling and stone walls.

In the adjoining dining room, a hand-painted map reveals the River Skirfare, which flows through the valley, passing a number of small villages. Walkers skim the map before bracing the brisk wind, away from the comfort of the inn; a treasure left to be discovered by others enjoying the beauty of the fells.