Fast food on a Japanese odyssey
The bullet train takes Bo Wilson straight to the heart of Tokyo and Kyoto’s bewildering dining scenes
CHERRY blossom, or sakura, season is the obvious time to visit Japan and for firsttimers the idea will be, as for me, a romantic one. With the snow-topped mountains of Samurai sagas, temples and tea ceremonies, French maid cafés and cosplay on the agenda, this would be the cherry (blossom) on top. Buds started to unfurl in the southern Okinawa archipelago in mid-January and will continue up to Sapporo in the north until the end of the month, spraying an already picturesque scene with their delicate pink blooms.
With just seven days to play with — and jet lag and transport in mind — I had to be executive about my must-sees, so my husband and I decided to split our time between Tokyo and Kyoto , shuttling on the bullet train between cities. My husband, a Japanophile, lived in the country for two years and had a mainly food-based tick-list. This was to be a gastronomic adventure.
Coming from London’s flourishing ramen scene, we were hungry to discover more. In Tokyo, we stayed at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, a luxurious address with stupendous views of the capital. After recovering from the long flight with treatments in its 37th-floor spa, we contemplated our first meal. Within the hotel itself are four Michel in- starred restaurants , including a pizzeria (Italian food is big in Japan). Meanwhile, the wine cellar is a replica of a French château’s, complete with brick walls and an underground climate.
But of course there was plenty to explore outside. It seemed — for my husband at least — that an apt place to start was Memory Lane, or Omoide Yokocho (often nicknamed Piss Alley), in the central business and entertainment district, Shinjuku. In the narrow, faux cherry blossom-lined street there are several yakitori stands in front of which we crouched on tiny stools to sample fresh pimen — barbecued, salted small green peppers, along with leek, chicken gizzard and pork skewers.
At Hiroki Okonomiyaki in Shimokitazawa, we ate excellent okonomiyaki (pancake with eggs, vegetables and seafood) that was cooked in front of us (dinner and a show). A highlight was the no-frills Gyoza Lou in Harajuku, a favourite of my husband — and seemingly everyone else, judging by the queue outside. It was worth the wait, however, as the restaurant, which serves just two types of dumpling — fried or steamed — deserves its fanatical following. I never wanted to eat anything else ever again.
We spent daytimes sightseeing at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building — a 243-metre skyscraper with a free viewing platform — and Yoyogi Park to see its gangs of rockabilly dancers, not to mention the dogs out for walkies with their colourful, anime-worthy hairstyles. At Senso-ji Temple, in Asakusa, we had our fortunes told by shaking a box, pulling out a stick and deciphering the number that came out. Mine wasn’t good (it is famous for its pessimistic predictions).
I cheered myself up at one of the city’s famed cat cafés, not that its furry residents deigned to do more than open an eye and roll over. As we scanned the menu for something to eat, we were in formed of their names and likes and dislikes, listed next to the beverages and cakes.
On to Kyoto on the Shinkansen bullet train — an adventure in itself. Taking any kind of transport in Japan was part of the fun of the trip, from watching the vast crowds of commuters queueing in the most orderly fashion at the train doors (a world away from Victoria station at rush hour) but the journey between the two cities was spectacular. And fast. Munching our way through addictive pineapple Hi-chu Chu sweets, we passed Mount Fuji — not quite the wood - block painting I was imagining, preceded as it is by sprawling concrete suburbs, but undeniably spectacular. Arriving in Kyoto, the sense of space was palpable, the buildings shorter and less crowded than in Tokyo. We were st aying at the RitzCarlton hotel on the banks of the Kamogawa River, backing onto canals resplendent with blossom. With views of the Higashiyama mountains, and set within four peaceful gardens, the hotel is as serene as they come, with a rippling stream at its entrance. On discovering our gourmet intentions, the staff organised sushi-making classes, a tour of Nishiki Market and lunch at the oldest udon restaurant in Japan, Owariya.
Nishiki, or “Kyoto’s kitchen”, is five blocks of shops and stalls dispensing food we had never seen before or since. Baby octopus lollipops with a quail egg stuffed into the head were among the more unusual delicacies on offer. What was once a wholesale fish market, Nishiki now caters to the local shopper, selling fish waffles, omelettes, sashimi and pickles. We were urged to try some of the mochi — sweet rice paste that reminded me (not unpleasantly) of Play-Doh. More tempting was lunch at Honke Owariya, which was founded in 1465, where we feasted on a tasty, gelatinous chicken and leek udon noodle soup.
That evening in Gion, traditionally Kyoto’s geisha district, we caught a glance of one or two ladies in traditional dress as we meandered through the streets. However, the city’s star attraction is the spectacular Kinkaku-ji, or Golden Pavilion Temple. Arriving at the end of the day, we marvelled at the golden Zen temple, its reflected glory gleaming from a pond at its foot.
We also walked through the Sagano bamboo forest in Arashiyama district, which is imperative in cherry blossom season. Expecting a rather more rustic experience, we were surprised to find a very neat and sanitary walk, complete with paving and fencing. It didn’t detract from the ethereal beauty, the bamboo trees eclipsing the sky around the hushed crowd of walkers.
Returning to Tokyo, we spent the end of our trip in an apartment rented through Airbnb in Meguro district. Bijou to say the least, it was a classic example of “pod living” — with all the necessities cleverly arranged. Our last meal was in a surprisingly good pizza restaurant, proof that It alian food deserves its devotees here.
There is no way we could get close to seeing and experiencing (and eating) all that Japan has to offer but we were lucky enough to have a little taste, or zensai, as it is known. I’m already planning a return in order to get further down the menu.