Haveagrapetime with Belgian wine
MY HANDS are already stained purple but I can’t resist grabbing another grape from the vine, which is eye-catchingly shrouded in autumnal golden leaves.
It’s maybe the sweetest fruit I’ve ever tasted, gooey with juice and perfectly ripe.
I’m not in France. I’m actually just over the border, in a country more widely renowned for its beer. Belgium is so synonymous with grain over grape that the cutesy-cobbled city of Namur, an hour’s drive from Brussels, has a street called Rue des Brasseurs (Brewers Street) which centuries ago housed an impressive 18 breweries.
Now, there are none in the centre of Namur. Instead, we’re here to visit the luscious green fields of the Wallonia countryside (a region in the predominantly French-speaking south, of which Namur is the capital) where some trend-setting vineyards lie. XXXXXX xxxxxx On the Wallonia wine route, I stopped
Xxxx at Domaine Viticole du Chenoy (domaine-du-chenoy.com), La Bruyere, where it’s £8 for a one-and-a-half to two-hour visit of the vineyard and the cuverie, plus a tasting.
Wallonia is known for its slow place, so we take our time driving along the River Meuse into the countryside.
At the end of a muddy track, bundles of pretty yellow, pink and white roses adorn vines, which slope for 10 acres over the rolling hills of the Ardennes.
We are greeted by 80-year-old Philippe Grafe, who only started making wine at the age of 65, but now produces about 40,000 litres every year – he sells to restaurants in the area and it can be bought online (belgianwines.com/nl).
Philippe always knew the fertile soil in Wallonia could be worthy of high-quality wine once again. The Belgians have a history of wine-making dating back to the 9th century, but making beer became more popular. Add to that a huge drop in temperatures, and winemaking had virtually disappeared by the beginning of the 19th century.
But a visit to Camel Valley Vineyard in Cornwall inspired Philippe to try and give wine-making a go – and not just for local consumption but to produce bottles worthy of the international market.
So he started with five different white grape varieties and one red grape, back in 2001.
His charming farmhouse is a delightful place to spend a lunchtime tasting wine, especially with the accompaniment of creamy Belgian cheeses, such as Le P’tit Fagot and Fromage a la biere, from Namur’s famous cheese and charcuterie, Maison Saint Aubain.
We even have a go at cutting vines and picking grapes ourselves – there’s something relaxing about being out in the fresh air, not using machinery but simply snipping away. Philippe says many locals love to come and help with the harvest, just for fun (and tourists can, too). Tipple to take home: The Perle de Wallonie is a delicious dry sparkling wine made with three grapes – johanniter, bronner and merzling. It’s left to ferment for 15 months in the bottle. Expect fruity aromas (peach, apricot), with a touch of lime at the finish (€14.25/£12.70 a bottle).