Enjoy the quiet revolution in Spanish whites

SPANISH wines were until fairly recently often red and, if white, then more often than not sherry or possibly cava. Still white wines were normally aged for long periods and often dull and of variable quality. So hurrah for the quiet revolution in Spanish wines over the past two decades. For it’s whites that have arguably benefited the most. A new generation of winemakers, investment in production technology and more widespread use of temperature-controlled fermentation and careful juice handling in stainless steel vats have helped create white wines that are clean and fresh. In many ways, this has been Spain going back to its roots. The country boasts a range of soils and climates suited to producing quality white wines, and a range of indigenous grape varieties that had been neglected for a long time, but are now given the respect they deserve.

Wines made from the Albariño grape in Galicia, the green north-west, are zingy with citrus fruit. Rueda, in the north central region, excels at the verdejo grape – producing wines that have a grassy herbal flavour with notes of lemon, lime and almonds and, often, a citrus acidity. White wine from Rioja in northern Spain is made principally from the viura grape. Wines used to be aged in oak for too long, masking the grape’s floral and citrus flavours, but today’s examples are balanced, aromatic and full of flavour. Whether made from indigenous grapes or popular varieties there are now many fabulous, thoroughly modern Spanish whites to choose from. And they’re generally good value for money.