Vintage charms of old Porto
300,000, it’s fairly compact. Streets are often uphill but they wind appealingly across the city, taking you past beautiful churches – don’t miss the baroque examples of Carmo and Carmelitas, on Gomes Teixeira Square, which boast elaborate blue-and-white tiles depicting religious scenes on their sides – or to jaw-dropping viewpoints such as the Miradouro da Vitória, where you can gaze back over to Vila Nova da Gaia and catch the twin turrets of the magnificent Se Cathedral among other picturesque houses and buildings.
Since I’m a glutton for punishment, and for an even better view, I also decide to clamber the 240 steps of the distinctive Torre de los Clérigos, the long, thin belltower of Clérigos church, which can be seen from most points of the city.
After all that exertion it’s time for some food. Porto has several specialities, including bacalhau – baked salted cod, served with potatoes. But one item which will really fill you up, not to mention soak up any alcohol you consume, is the francesinha: a layered sandwich filled with steak, sausage and ham, covered in melted cheese and served in a tasty tomato sauce – often with chips. Try it at Café Santiago on Rua Passos Manuel, which specializes in this mighty dish.
Fresh ingredients will most likely be bought at the city’s biggest market, Mercado do Bolhão, where farmers sell their produce, and where you can pick up olive oils, smoked meats, cheeses and more.
There’s just time to wander around Livraria Lello – an elegant bookshop near Clérigos church dating from 1869, which is one of the oldest in the country, and is credited with inspiring JK Rowling with the décor of Hogwarts due to its stained glass windows, sweeping staircases and wood panelling – or visit São Francisco church, whose interior is coated in nearly 100kg of gold leaf, before it’s time to head back to The Yeatman for a well-earned aperitif in its clubby bar. Go on then barman – pass the Port.
THE KNOWLEDGE
Classic Collection Holidays (0800 294 9315/classic-collection.co.uk) offers three nights at The Yeatman Hotel from £589 per person (two sharing), B&B. Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Porto. Portugal tourist board: visitportugal. com