No one can say no to a shawarma

The arabic snack is an integral part of uae’s culture and cuisine. Here’s celebrating the good ol’ shawarma, a comfort food for many and a much-loved iftar dish too

Arecent repeat watch of one of The Avengers (2012) series ‘offended’ the Middle Eastern foodie in me. Such goes the dialogue by Tony Stark aka Iron Man — ‘Alright. Hey. Alright. Good job, guys. Let’s just not come in tomorrow. Let’s just take a day. Have you ever tried shawarma? There’s a shawarma joint about two blocks from here. I don’t know what it is, but I wanna try it.’ Huh! My eyes popped out — who doesn’t know what a shawarma is? Foodies, chefs, and home cooks in the city would agree. Shawarma is to us what burgers are to Americans, chaats to Indians, and croissants to French. We’re also known to introduce visitors to our comfort food — be it at street side eateries or at fancy restaurants. After all, no one can say no to a shawarma. Right?

What makes a good shawarma?

“It needs to be juicy and full of flavour. For chicken shawarma, it’s good to use a mix of breast and thigh meat, as chicken thighs retain more juices and moisture. It’s important to marinate the meat with the right mix of spices and for the correct length of time, the meat should soak up the flavour of the marinade, but not be too overpowering. The right balance of condiments is also a key for a perfect shawarma sandwich — you don’t want to over fill it, but you need enough pickles and sauce to complement the meat and add moisture, texture, and bold flavours to the mix,” says Doxis Bekris, Executive Chef, Raffles Dubai. “The Turkish equivalent to shawarma is lahmacun (pronounced lahmajoon). Perfect topping, accurate baking for a crisp base, followed by a squeeze of lemon on top (with salad) and correct rolling defines a perfect lahmacun,” says Chef Gökhan Özcan, Besh Turkish Kitchen, Sheraton Dubai, Mall of the Emirates. Executive Sous Chef Georges Rahme, Anise, InterContinental Dubai Festival City, adds, “The bread quality is important too, as are the vegetables and the sauce be it garlic for chicken and Tahini for other meat types.”

The making of a shawarma

“Few people realise this, but to make a good shawarma, it takes at least 24 hours. Remember that the marinating process needs to be perfect — it is the key. It all depends on the flavour of the meat. Equally important is the quality of the meat and the spices used in the marinade, and the condiments add that finishing touch,” says Walter Miculan, Executive Chef, Hilton Abu Dhabi. “For a good lahmacun, it is best to prepare the dough for the base in advance and let it stand for an hour or so. Once the dough is ready, then within 10 minutes you can prepare the base, top it up with meat or vegetables and bake in the oven,” says Özcan. In Rahme’s opinion, “The secret is to keep the meat marinating overnight, before you start the cooking process. If skewered, it needs half an hour cooking time before you start shaving or cutting the meat.”

A most-loved Ramadan eat

“It makes up for a quick and satisfying meal, and is also a comfort food for many,” says Bekris. “During the Holy Month, people eat lighter to cope with the change in their routine. It is a perfect light snack for those breaking their fast,” says Miculan. “On regular days, it can be enjoyed at any time of the day, although chicken and beef options are usually consumed for lunch or dinner, while lighter wraps containing turkey, cheese, and za’atar are eaten at breakfast or brunch,” says Dalia Sharawi, Brand Director, Operation Falafel. “Lahmacun is a light and healthy option than any fried alternative,” says Özcan.

And the favourites are…

Chicken shawarma holds the coveted number one spot. “It is an ideal choice for a home preparation because chicken costs less and is an easy ingredient. Beef and lamb options are delicious, but require more attention during the marinating process. Also, one needs to be accurate with the cooking temperature to make sure it is not undercooked or overcooked,” says Bekris. “Chicken – because it is a relatively neutral tasting meat, which lets you enjoy the flavours of the marinade,” shares Miculan.

Layers of history

“For me, the most interesting aspect is the fact that a simple snack that originated in the 19th century managed to travel the world and became synonymous with street-style food in many different cultures. From Turkey to Greece and Lebanon to of course, the UAE — each country has created its own style of shawarma with different twists and adaptations and each claim authenticity for their own style. It goes to show how people from different cultures all share a common enjoyment of a good, comforting food.” says Bekris. “All across the world, people love and enjoy this street food item. Our region is best known for chicken and beef shawarma (it is spelt like that too), which have been around for a long time, with people growing up eating it,” adds Sharawi. “No one really knows where a shawarma was first prepared, some say Levant countries other says Turkish. This always leads to ‘healthy’ conversations between Turkish and Lebanese chefs!” adds Özcan.

Sampling the snack

At Azur, Raffles Dubai, the Iftar spread includes a dedicated shawarma station and a unique Tahini sauce fountain as well. They make the chicken shawarma fresh, everyday. “It’s cooked to perfection and then served either loose on a plate with all the works or as a wrap with tasty pickles and garlic sauce,” shares Bekris. In addition, they serve fish and beef shawarma on rotation, with different marinades and toppings. At Operation Falafel (seven outlets across Dubai), you can choose between Shawerma Sandwich in Chicken or Beef in Pita or Saj bread, and if you’re in a group, do order the Shawerma Platter. On offer at Hilton Abu Dhabi’s Suhoor tent (Beach Garden) are chicken and beef shawarma options, which you can have as a wrap or on a plate. At Besh Turkish Kitchen, a must-eat lahmacun is the traditional version with minced lamb. A live shawarma station awaits you at Anise — here, if you are game then you can try rolling a shawarma on your own.

I find it interesting that the name of the dish in several countries is based on the cooking process. Shawarma is an Arabic rendering of the Turkish çevirme, which means ‘turning’. When it was introduced to Greece, the locals named it ‘gyros,’ the Greek word for ‘turn.’ Even the word doner kebab, literally means ‘rotating roast’ in Turkish. Walter Miculan, Executive Chef, Hilton Abu Dhabi It is not just a mere chicken or beef wrap. A lot of factors go into making a delicious shawarma, including the marinade, method of preparing and grilling the meat, composition of the sandwich, and various toppings that are native to the Middle Eastern culture. Dalia Sharawi, Brand Director, Operation Falafel The true history of lahmacun, Turkish equivalent to shawarma, is a bit of a mystery as various Middle Eastern countries have their own version of this flatbread with toppings. Chef Gökhan Özcan, Besh Turkish Kitchen, Sheraton Dubai The meat has to be sliced to just the right thickness so it’s thin enough to cook evenly throughout the different layers, and thick enough to get the crispy, smoky flavour on the outer side from the roasting flame. Doxis Bekris, Executive Chef, Raffles Dubai It is a famous, traditional street food and during Ramadan people crave authentic food. Also, the snack is ideal menu item for both kids and adult during Iftar and Suhoor. Georges Rahme, Executive Sous Chef, Anise, InterContinental Dubai Festival City