New, safer solution to ageing spots
Biotechnology is increasingly being used in beauty treatment
At its manufacturing facilities in Bang Yai, Nonthaburi, Siam Bioscience is pushing the envelope by employing state-of-the-art biotechnology in producing human replicas of EGF (epidermal growth factor), now a beauty buzzword since its incorporation into skincare products.
Since 2010, Icelandic firm Bioeffect has been bioengineering a plant-based replica of EGF from barley featured in its age-defying treatments. A host of South Korean companies have also introduced ampoules, serums, creams and masks containing EGF from plants as well as the controversial use of human cells.
Obtained through microbial biotechnology, Siam Bioscience’s Standard EGF, or sH-Oligopeptide-1, is the active ingredient in Uderma and Ardermis skin and haircare products marketed by affiliated company, Inno-Biocosmed.
Defined as bio-cosmeceuticals, they are available at clinics, hospitals and leading drug stores such as Lab Pharmacy and Save Drug, as well as King Power duty-free stores.
“The industry is a ‘Red Ocean’ where cosmetics companies compete for a piece of the pie. We differentiate by offering bio-cosmeceuticals that truly rejuvenate the skin whereas cosmetics mostly only provide a moisturisation effect,” said Songwut Sakchalathorn, managing director of Inno-Biocosmed.
A blend of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals are claimed to have medicinal properties. Bio-cosmeceuticals specifically contain biologically-active compounds, with Inno-Biocosmed highlighting EGF as an aesthetic solution against scarring, wrinkles and thinning hair.
EGF and NGF (nerve growth factor) were discovered by Nobel laureates in Physiology or Medicine, Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini, who were honoured for their works in 1986.
Found naturally in the human body, the polypeptide plays a role in skin repair after a trauma, which led to its medical uses such as for surgical scars, burns and wounds from accidents.
Moreover, the molecule is essential for a youthful complexion, making it a trending ingredient in anti-ageing skincare products.
“A good level of EGF is required for healthy and young skin, but this decreases significantly from the age of 29, contributing to ageing skin. Replenishment from an external source can help restore the body’s supply but the EGF replica has to be identical to human skin in order to have an effect,” explained Songwut, a pharmacist with a doctoral degree in organisational development.
The locally-produced EGF is certified in Germany by Protagen Protein Services as being similar to human EGF as well as having high purity. “Our biotechnological production gives a molecular size that is 20,000 times smaller than that of a human’s pore. Accordingly, it can optimally be absorbed as a substitute of human-EGF for skin and hair rejuvenation,” he added.
Enriched with onion and pennywort extracts, Uderma EGF-Bio Advanced Scar Gel is particularly recommended for atrophic acne scars and as a post-treatment for skin-resurfacing laser.
The Ardermis Youth Recall collection includes EGF concentrate, serum and lifting cream for facial skin.
The Ardermis Youth Factor line for thinning tresses comprises an EGF serum and scalp/ hair-strengthening treatment as a set of 28 bottles. The anti-hair-loss formula also features FGF (fibroblast growth factor), another buzzword that comes with the trend for biotech beauty products.
Inno-Biocosmed has collaborated with Mahidol University in conducting clinical studies to further prove the effectiveness of Uderma and Ardermis formulas.
“The business plan also aims for future export. In the meantime, we want to show Thais how a Thai company has the capability to produce skin-rejuvenating bio-cosmeceuticals that deliver results,” said Songwut.