Get ready for the vegetarian festival
It used to be that clafoutis were always baked French pancakes studded with cherries. Some clafoutis were smooth and flan-like; others puffed and turned golden brown on top. Some versions called for pitted cherries for greater ease of eating. Others insisted on whole cherries so the pits could add almondy nuance. And when cherries weren’t in season, different fruits stepped in: apricots, plums, berries, even pears.
But sweetness was a necessity, part of the deal. Until one day it wasn’t.
Clafoutis have moved on to the savoury side. Now, in addition to classic recipes served for dessert or brunch, you’ll see them studded with meat, vegetables and cheese for lunch and dinner. For anyone who loves puffy, eggy savouries like the soft interior of a quiche, a cheesy frittata or a custardy Yorkshire pudding, this is a very good trend indeed.
Making the switch from sweet to savoury is simple to do, as long as you don’t mess with the structure of the pancake. The ratio of eggs to milk to flour needs to remain largely in place.
But beyond that, anything goes. Adding herbs, spices and grated cheese will give you a nicely piquant base in which to stir more substantial fillings: meat, vegetables, bits of leftover curry stashed in the fridge. Just make sure that whatever meats and vegetables you use are cooked through before you fold them in. They won’t cook any more while the pancake is in the oven; they just heat through while the egg batter around them sets and inflates.
This vegetable-rich version is an excellent vehicle for using up the last of the summer corn, to which I add Swiss chard and leeks for colour and heft, along with garlic, herbs, cheese and both red and black pepper for bite.
It bakes up browned and almost souffléd on top, with a dense, rich middle. But it will deflate quickly. So for maximum drama, have your guests seated at the table when you pull it out of the oven. This said, it’s perfectly delicious after it flattens out. It may not be as striking, but with its salty depth of flavour, it’s just as irresistible.