AGEING AND ALGAE

In the cosmetics industry, algae is known for being used as an ingredient for anti-ageing, with many brands exploring the ocean to find a potent youth extract.

Biotherm’s endeavour went to Greenland’s glacial waters, where Alaria Esculenta survives in temperatures below -16C at depths of up to 35m. The auto-regenerative algae reaches growth rates of up to 10cm per day, faster than other macroalgae species.

Composed of a web of elastic fibres made of proteins and polysaccharides, it has the strength and elasticity to withstand the pounding of more than 8,000 waves a day.

Believing that the algae’s resilience can be transferred into extract form, Biotherm makes such an extract using the process of osmotic shock, whereby the sudden acceleration of water pressure inside the cells causes a release of algae’s active elements, which is then purified to become the Algae of Youth extract featured in the Blue Therapy Accelerated Repairing Serum.

The launch of the serum is accompanied by the concept of “inflammaging”. Derived from research into the causes of ageing, the French skincare brand concluded that 20% of ageing signs are chronological and inevitable while 80% of visible ageing signs are linked to environmental and lifestyle factors.

UV rays, pollution, tobacco, stress and also heat speed up the skin’s cellular ageing via a common process of free radical production, resulting in a micro-inflammation. The production of inflammatory mediators is slow and continuous, leading to a silent inflammaging, which can degrade collagen and elastin fibres that hold up the skin.

The serum was developed under a double anti-ageing strategy to target the inflammation before it occurs and to also repair existing damage.