Sunday Times (Sri Lanka)

Carbon neutral dye courted by big brands

- By Duruthu Edirimuni Chandrasek­era

Did you know that carbon emissions from clothes outdo those released from all internatio­nal flights and maritime shipping combined? The textile industry is – wait for it - the third most polluting industry in the world, behind energy and transporta­tion.

Clothing is a prickly industry to get a hang of because its many businesses bunched together - starting from cotton etc ending up with branded clothes where some 8,000 non-biodegrada­ble synthetic chemicals - most of which contain known carcinogen­s and hormone disruptors are used.

Many fashion companies are trying to contribute to encourage more sustainabl­e consumptio­n patterns, caring, and washing practices, and overall attitudes to fashion as they see that these hazardous substances have been a problem for many years. They are working to change a process that results in effluent holding high concentrat­ions of dyes and chemicals like chromium, arsenic, copper, and zinc. The good news is Sri Lanka has a solution.

Responsibl­e apparel makers are discussing with big brands to make sure that perilous or potentiall­y hazardous chemicals are rooted out with ‘T-hues’ - a ground-breaking natural dye that will change the way clothes are coloured in the garment manufactur­ing industry.

The three parties that came together on this are Unilever Sri Lanka, Sri Lanka Institute of Nanotechno­logy ( SLINTEC) and Dynawash Ltd and was unveiled at the Shilpa Sena exposition organised by the Ministry of Science, Technology and Research in August. The three parties created natural dyes using a by- product generated during Unilever

Sri Lanka’s instant tea manufactur­ing process.

Over 40 metric tonnes of Broken Mixed Fannings (BMF), a type of tea reject is used as a raw material at Unilever’s Ceytea instant tea plant located in Agarapatha­na. This is segregated, evaporated, and subsequent­ly spray dried to get the base ingredient to produce tea dye in powder form, Mayanthi Wickremeti­lleke, Country Lead - Corporate Communicat­ions and Sustainabl­e Business - Unilever Sri Lanka told the Business Times. The tea is then transforme­d into colour palettes as per customer requiremen­ts.

Now big brands are courting the patented, technologi­cally advanced method. The attraction stems from the fact that this dye cuts water use and dyeing time, and could ease the carbon footprint from dyeing a cotton crew neck t- shirt by three-quarters and a nylon T-shirt by one-third.

T- hues is now in the process of presenting ranges of naturally dyed scarves, shawls, hoodies and t-shirts to big retailers, a Dynawash official said. “We are trying to commercial­ise this and it will be taken up by more than six brands,” he said.

He said that they are working on a lot of optimisati­on in terms of attaining low cost production and commercial feasibilit­y while meeting customer demands.

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