Broadening culinary horizons above a great view
ENDLESS Horizons must be one of Durban’s hidden secrets.
The five-star boutique hotel has such a wonderful setting, perched high on the hill overlooking Durban North, with a large wooden deck and infinity pool taking in 180º sea views. On a balmy, windless summer evening there can be few better places to enjoy a meal.
We relaxed instantly and sat on the deck sipping a very good chenin as group exec chef Gordon Manuel took us through a small but enticing menu. It’s the type of menu that will change regularly, depending on seasonal availability. But it certainly gives a flavour of what’s cooking in the kitchen… and believe me, it’s cooking. This certainly dispelled that old Durban maxim, the better the view, the worse the food.
While watching the lights come on over Durban North, we munched on a lovely home-baked bread with a good hummus and olive tapenade for dipping. We marvelled at the number of ships on the horizon. It’s dramatic at night.
Starters were enticing. Thai-style fish cake with tempura prawn, pickled cabbage, jalapeño soy dressing and wasabi mayonnaise certainly tempted, as did prosciutto, balsamic compressed melon, feta and olives – a nice take on the 1970s classic. My friend waxed lyrical about the citrus-cured salmon with skin crackling, pickled cucumber, herbs, capers, lime crème fraiche and yuzu pearls (R100). I managed to pinch a bit and it was a magnificent dish.
For those, like me, not in the know, yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit that originated in central China as a hybrid of a mandarin orange and the ichang papeda. It looks like a small grapefruit and tastes like a lemon. In fact, when those pearls popped in my mouth, I thought, “mojito”.
I opted for the humble salad (R80) of salt-baked beetroot, fresh leaves, goat’s cheese, toasted pecan nuts and a balsamic and sultana dressing. It was a delicious light dish, perfect for the setting. A summery rendition of beetroot.
The chef then brought us a taster of his kingklip and prawn curry served with fresh labneh and a papadum (R195). I’m going to order this next time. The curry had real depth without being overly hot, so the beautiful flavours of the perfectly cooked seafood came though.
For those who want a light bite, there is a terrace menu which takes in some gourmet toasted sandwiches and wraps, salads, and a house-made burger and ribs. There’s also a cheese board which would be great to share with a glass of wine.
Mains take in the likes of freerange chicken with grilled tomato and zucchini, labneh, red onion, and thyme essence, or line fish with chickpea purée, marinated tomato, olive tapenade, sautéed green beans and pimento essence. There’s also a wild mushroom gnocchi.
My friend settled on the duo of beef, fillet with braised oxtail on rosti, with baby vegetables, parsley purée and sherry jus (R220) which was another superb dish. The fillet was perfectly cooked, but the depth of flavour that came out of that deboned oxtail was a real surprise.
I really enjoyed the lamb chops, again perfectly cooked in a mild and creamy korma sauce on saffron potato with chargrilled cauliflower, lime and coconut chutney and radish (R210). I even enjoyed the cauliflower, never my favourite.
We were persuaded to squeeze in dessert and I’m glad we did.
My orange blossom panna cotta served with strawberries and a powerful raspberry sorbet was memorable (R80). The picture had all the women at the office drooling. Yet it is such a simple dish, but rarely is panna cotta made properly. My friend’s wine-poached pear with Gorgonzola on ginger biscuit (R90) is the one minor criticism of the evening, the Gorgonzola mousse overpowering the dish somewhat.
It’s always refreshing eating out when you’re really surprised. When everything comes together to make a memorable meal. That’s great cooking, a wonderful setting, good service and even the weather gods playing their part.
Food: 4½
Service: 4
Ambience: