‘Meal’ sparks pub row

London – It’s a hard-boiled issue that has hinted at cracks in UK government policy: does a boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat and battered with breadcrumbs constitute a “substantial meal”?

The curious row – and days of headlines – about scotch eggs comes as England prepares to lift its latest coronavirus restrictions and allow people to go the pub again from Wednesday.

New rules lay out plans for hospitality venues in “Tier 2”, of a planned threetier restrictions system, to stay open until 11pm but to serve alcohol only alongside a “substantial meal”.

In many countries of more gastronomic repute, the issue would hardly be up for debate.

But British pub-goers are more used to having a packet of crisps or pork scratchings with their pints – and considering it as dinner.

UK Environment Secretary George Eustice said this week that scotch eggs would constitute a meal “if there were table service” and the concept was widely understood in the pub industry.

But Cabinet Office Secretary Michael Gove appeared to poach the issue this week, saying a “couple of scotch eggs” – with pickle on the side – was a starter and not a substantial main course.

Downing Street, currently otherwise engaged with last-gasp Brexit trade negotiations and firefighting the economic turmoil from the pandemic, was dragged into the debate.

“We’ve been clear,” said Prime Minister Boris Johnson’s official spokesman, just weeks after having to clear up similar confusion about Cornish pasties and pizza slices.

“Bar snacks do not count as a substantial meal but it’s a well-established practice in the hospitality industry what does.”

The public, it appears, is inclined to agree that scotch eggs are simply snacks.

A Savanta Comres poll said just 21% of people consider a scotch egg to be a “substantial meal” compared with 34% for chips and 39% for soup.

About 83%, however, said a Sunday roast – traditionally beef, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and vegetables with gravy – was.

Never before has the humble scotch egg received so much attention and headlines.