JP ROSSOUW

D ECA M E RO N

Perfect place for a business lunch

THIS famous Stellenbosch landmark is a business lunch institution — so much so that owner Mario knows the captains of industry by name and long association. This is the place where the late Anton Rupert had his regular table, and when it closed for a number of years for renovation, there was a palpable vacuum for the business lunch set; now they have returned.

The large though comfortable interior is neat in tile and dark wood-clad pillars with matching dark furnishings, while wine bottles, Italian posters and wine branding make up the décor — there is a contemporary freshness, but that may just be because I remember the previous, welllived-in space.

There are ample nooks and crannies to sit at, while the streetside seats offer lovely light from high windows. Service is very proficient, marshalled by the experienced family, while the wine list is decent, with many options by the glass.

The menu marches through the rule book of classic Italian fare, very passable thin-base pizza included, but there are also a few steps toward “fusion” customer favourites, such as chicken schnitzel and curry (in fact there is also a pasta “al curry”). Of the chicken dishes, the baby chicken al forno (R110) is a great option but (reassuringly) takes 40 minutes to prepare. Notably, there is a good selection of seafood; the “zimino” is tasty — poached kingklip, mussels, prawns and calamari (R130); and they sometimes have fish cooked “al cartoccio” (in paper) which is well prepared.

The meats section features tripe as a permanent item (R92), all manner of veal dishes and panfried steaks, as well as tagliata (sliced rare steak). Suckling pig is available on occasion.

A recent lunch began with a fish soup made from fresh cob; it was fine, though could have been an Asian soup as much as Italian with its slightly gelatinous texture. A pizza with mushrooms was covered with the generic button ones, but the rest was decent and well balanced in proportions and in flavours.

A penne arrabiata was similarly well balanced in tastes with enough kick, while the pasta was just the right side of al dente.

The other main was the house “regular” speciality, the ossobuco (R120), which was very good indeed, with deep flavours from slow cooking.

An old-fashioned choice of mash or rice or vegetables is offered; the vegetables are creamed spinach and butternut — it’s just that kind of place. FOR: A good option for a more established, mature feel and a lunch institution. AGAINST: Prices are elevated for the straightforward nature of the food.