Philippine Daily Inquirer

For a change, the rich North China cuisine—hand-pulled noodles and meats

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There is a seemingly endless variety of Chinese food. Every time we go for a Chinese meal, there is excited anticipati­on for what will be served.

We felt just that—the prospect of sampling North China cuisine at the new Jing Ting, the casual restaurant in City of Dreams Manila. The restaurant’s name alone conjures a happy, delightful time with its musical tone.

Jing Ting

Second level, City of Dreams Manila. May be reached through the casino entrance.

From the tables, get a full view of the chef efficientl­y executing the process of handpulled noodles, the restaurant’s specialty. Dining area— Jing Ting means “little house.” This was the old traditiona­l meeting place, called hotung, which is part of Beijing’s rich cultural history where the community would meet to strengthen relations. Hotungs with gray tile roofs usually lined the lane.

The main décor of this restaurant is a reproducti­on of the hotung roof. It seats more than 90, at tables of hardwood.

Regarding the hand-pulled noodles, it is always interestin­g to watch how the mass of flour separates into long, soft white noodles. It is an art.

Service— Alert. As we watched the handpullin­g of noodles, an appetizer—crunchy cubes of eggplants seasoned with Five Spices, with a dip—was served. Tea was continuous­ly poured. What to order— The menu is extensive. It should be noted that Northern China cooking is based on natural flavors using vinegar, garlic, coriander, leeks and salt, all producing richer flavors and aroma. This was evident in our orders—Hand-pulled Noodles in Clear Chicken Soup, and Northern Fried Noodles with pork, egg and vegetables.

Our other choices among the excellent dishes included Beijing Pork Dumplings, Genghis Khan Short Beef Ribs and Xiyiang Spicy Lamb Skewers with Cumin Sauce, Crispy Fried Tea-Marinated Chicken, Wok-Fried Sweet Sour Pork.

Jing Ting is a noodles, dumpling and meat restaurant. Don’t expect seafood fare. For dessert, we had a light Red Bean Cake, which balanced the heavy-meaty lunch.

Service and government charges included in the bill. Senior cards honored.

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